Towards the River Severn...Macclesfield canal to the Trent and Mersey.

Our annual 'summer' travels on the canals with 'San Serriffe' has been delayed this year from our usual choice of early May onwards.

Perhaps this is just as well as the British 'summer' has developed into the usual cold and wet affair that we have learned to live with and be philosophical about......global warming perhaps......but I wish it would warm this chilly part of northern England.

Delaying until July has at least increased the chances of a glimpse of the sun....as May and June has been seen the usual wall to wall grey clouds.

July 1st saw the same grey clouds herald a start on our journey towards the River Severn as we left Higher Poynton dressed in the usual wet weather gear. A rare sighting of the sun was actually witnessed and duly logged and the details reported to the Royal Astronomical Society before stopping for an overnight on Gurnett Aqueduct and relaxing with a few beers in the Ye olde (1695) ' Kings Head ' pub....once visited by Bonnie Prince Charlie it is claimed......wow, that guy certainly got around and  obviously enjoyed a good pub crawl.

A rare sighting of the sun......south of Macclesfield

Following day found us heading for the next watering hole of  the 'Rising Sun' at Scholar Green and after an afternoon of constant rain we managed to get a vacant mooring in the late afternoon near this popular hostelry. On most occasions all the nearby moorings have gone by this time....... a testament to the popularity this superb pub.

Bosley locks had to be negotiated before we could enjoy a little 'R&R' in the 'Rising Sun'.
We have been up and down these twelve locks on numerous occasions and for some reason there has always been a certainty about them.......it always rains !!!!!!

Negotiating the Bosley flight of locks

We were actually surprised that despite the threatening clouds, not a drop of rain fell on us.  It came with a vengeance though in the afternoon forcing us to seek refuge in the aforementioned  'Rising Sun' 

Not sure that she will fit with the rest of the herd !!....... a colourful cow brightens the morning at a canal-side farm on the Congleton side of Bosley locks.  Macclesfield Canal.

Nearing the end of the Macclesfield canal and as a precaution before negotiating the 2926 yard (in old money) Harecastle tunnel I checked the prop' through the weed-hatch for any fouling like the usual plastic bags/old rope etc. Struggling through the dark of this long tunnel with an engine labouring against debris on the propeller is not to be recommended.... a bitter experience of our first trip through this subterranean tube that seems to go on for ever......

Despite our precautions .....yes you are ahead of me.......the prop fouled in the tunnel and the engine laboured as the prop-wash gave the usual fan-tail wake which is a sure indicator of something spoiling the curves of the prop' and turning it into a thrashing machine.

Not in the mood to stop all the boats in the following flotilla and dive into the weedhatch in the pitch-dark  to clear the prop' we struggled on.  Despite our prop' problem we negotiated the tunnel in about 45 minutes - about par for a trip through the Harecastle.


Emerging blinking into the bright light of the Stoke side of the tunnel we promptly moored-up and found a tight circle of weed-roots on the boss of the propeller. These felt like rope as I struggled blindly with unsighted hands in the freezing water. Weed roots they might be, but they were almost as strong as the rope I imagined them to be and resisted my attempts to break them with my hands. Unfurling them from the prop' took some time, but eventually we were clear and we could make  headway without a struggling engine trying to overcome the resistance caused by the thrashing weed..

Counting them out...tunnel keeper ensures that the number of boats leaving the tunnel matches the number that went in !!!!!

Northern portal of the Harecastle tunnel

Are we nearly there yet?.....

Our last trip in March was optimistically headed ' Sunshine Weekend' and the warmth of the sun lasted......er well....hardly a weekend !!!

It is certainly all my fault that the recent weather of savage cold east winds and drifting snow is a direct result of my predication that winter was finally over.......I should know better !  Winds with the freezing force of a Siberian winter have been blasting narrowboats  and most other types of transport almost into submission.

A recent visit to 'San Serriffe' to check how the mooring ropes were holding against the wind witnessed a few brave and hardy boat crews making crab-like progress along the canal despite the wind.  A recent 'lull' in the weather and a visit from a friend who resides in Plymouth prompted a suggestion of a day's cruise to Macclesfield. 

Having had some experience of cold weather ( is there any other type ?) in-shore sailing, I guessed he would enjoy a little 'booze' cruise on the back of a rain-swept narrowboat to make him feel at home.

Grey skies heralded the morning as three-men in a boat (another hardy friend was also invited) and we all headed towards Macclesfield.  I tried to keep the macho image of braving the weather without a coat for as long as possible, but after an hour or so I decided on the sensible thing and grabbed my coat , hat and gloves, making a fair stab at an impersonation of an Arctic explorer....but at least I was warm (ish)

" Anybody catch the weather forecast this morning ?" I asked of nobody in particular.
" Cloud, rain interspersed with more rain and cloud....and piggin' cold " came the reply
" Which forecast was that......the BBC? "  I asked
" No mine, I just made it up......bet I am right though !" came the optimistic reply.

 Spring has sprung with a shiver, but that is why sheep have woolly coats !!

Daffodils struggling to force their way through canal-side brambles.........

 Passing through Bollington the 'crew' were becoming rebellious as lunch time started to pass without any 'lunch' liquid or otherwise on the horizon.

" Are we nearly there yet ?"  was the plaintive cry.
" Not far....just a few miles to go " I said
" How long ?"   came another demand
" Oh, not long.....soon have you in a warm pub" I of course lied as a few miles on the canal is always longer than you think.
" Hope they serve food all day then" came a grumpy observation.

Things were proving positively mutinous..........

Clarence Mill, Bollington

I gave way to the 'Bollington Packet Boat at a bridge on the other side of the Bollington aqueduct.
When my companions realized that this was a restaurant boat and could see the diners sat in their warm cabin scoffing hot food washed down by beer and wine, the mutiny nearly boiled over..................

" Oh, look ....should have gone on that boat, bar is open all the time there...."  came the envious observation.

A skipper dressed for the weather- Bollington Packet restaurant boat.

As dreams of a warm pub became more desperate the remains of large snow drifts added a visual dimension to the mental state of my freezing passengers.

" Wow........good job we were not going through here a couple of weeks ago, we would have needed a snow plough on the front of the boat !" came a not too inaccurate observation.........

Snow drifts at the side of the Macclesfield canal

Finally reaching Macclesfield before I was forced to walk the plank, I managed to moor 'San Serriffe' a few minutes walk from the 'Puss in Boots' pub and noticed with great relief that food was served all day......phew!

Hot food and a couple of pints thankfully restored good humour for our return journey.


Back on the boat the it became colder and colder as unrelenting rain soaked  the jolly crew
to the bone..........


"Perhaps we could stop at the 'Miner's Arms' on the way back" somebody suggested as a moral booster.

" Are we nearly there yet ?"  came the quiet reply.



 

'Puss in Boots' Macclesfield Canal.

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Sunshine weekend......

'Hold the Front Page' ....... 'sunshine and clear blue skies forecast over the North of England'

 As long suffering residents of this soggy sceptered Isle we have learned that  wasting  sunny weather  is akin to sacrilege.   Second day of March found us throwing all the essentials like a few bottles of wine onto the boat and heading towards sunny Marple and the Upper Peak Forest for an extended weekend.

Sun Glasses.........check
Folding chairs (to lounge in the sun)......check
Side hatch open to catch the rays.......check
Remember to buy coal ( in the unlikely event it turns cold)....check
Sun tan cream ?.................now you are being silly !!!!!!!!

Standing bravely coat-less on the back of the boat in my (admittedly padded) shirt sleeves, I realised this was the first time I had been outside without a coat since winter had touched everything with it's icy claws in November. In fact most of the year had seen us festooned in coats of some kind.


Heading towards Marple from Higher Poynton we planned to join the Upper Peak Forest Canal and head towards Bugsworth Basin near the terminus of the canal at Whaley Bridge.

Nice drop 'o sunshine - nearing Marple

Junction of Macclesfield Canal and The Peak Forest Canal - Marple.

A long blast of the horn at the blind junction of Peak Forest and Macclesfield canals hopefully avoids a head-on collision as we negotiate this unsighted ninety-degree bend and onwards towards the Peak District with its hills still covered with patches of snow.

Looking back towards the Macclesfield Canal - Marple

Blue sky cruising - Peak Forest Canal, Marple

Surprisingly for such a beautiful day there is little traffic on the water as we pass moored boats at Marple  and the panoramic views towards Mellor together with its companion upper moorland scenery begin to unfurl in the crisp clear sunlight.

Rooms with a view - houses situated above Marple Ridge.

Upper Peak Forest canal is certainly worth a visit come rain or shine..........but like most things much better in the 'shine'

A slight disadvantage of this stretch of the Upper Peak Forest is the two 'lift' bridges and two 'swing' bridges before you arrive at Furness Vale.    Both lift bridges are windlass operated and require more than a few strenuous turns to get into the 'lift' position. It is possible to get on and off your boat on the non-towpath side next to the lift mechanism  avoiding mooring at the conventional bridge mooring and walking across and then moving your boat through to moor again at the other side to collect your crew.
This also makes life a lot easier if you are soloing.

  

Peak Forest Canal Lift Bridge

Furness Vale swing bridge. Leaving bridge open for a following boat - first boat is waiting on bridge mooring (camera location)

 Approaching Whaley Bridge the canal enters a wooded area after Furness Vale Marina with the temperature dropping steeply as the trees hide the sun and I reach for my coat.......brrr!

But is nice to see the first signs of spring on the trees...........

'Pussy Willow' buds herald spring.

'Suzy' keeps a watch for killer ducks - Furness Vale Marina

Mooring in Bugsworth Basin  on Saturday the temperature dropped so low in the early hours of Sunday that the basin froze over.   Fortunately Sunday brought another nice day that soon thawed the ice cover. Our coal stocks were low and we had been using logs on the 'Morso' fire so we very pleased when 'Alton' the fuel boat appeared on Monday morning enabling us to purchase a bag of coal which should now last us until the weather starts to warm up.

Renaissance Canal Carrying Company - fuel boat 'Alton'

Bugsworth Lower Basin with Braidbar boat 'Bosley' in the forground.

 Bugsworth Basin was was a hive of activity in the 19th Century with Limekilns producing burnt Lime to be moved by boat to Manchester and beyond.  It is a fascinating place being one of the busiest inland 'ports' during its heyday with narrowboats moving burnt-Lime, Limestone and stone 'sets'  to feed the frenzy of building that characterized that time.

Every time we visit Bugsworth I seem to notice something I have missed before.......like the set of exposed stone steps that lead down
the side of a bridge that is the entrance to the Upper Basin.....I assume this would enable the boatman ( or woman) to climb up and over the bridge enabling the boat to be  'bow-hauled'  through with a rope as there is no tow-path access under the bridge for man nor' beast. 
Certainly like all things at that time there was scant regard to safety.

I certainly would not like to run up and down it too many times especially carrying a long wet rope !!

  
 Monday brought cloudy cold weather with more than a little wind as we crabbed in reverse out of the lower basin. Using the strong wind to turn the stern into the opening for the middle and upper basins we eventually pointed towards Whaley Bridge stopping at the water-point before leaving so that 'San Serriffe' would be ready to 'rock 'n roll'  with a full tank of the H20 stuff for our next weekend sojourn into the
 ( fingers crossed) sun.

Best way to spend a cold Monday morning......discovering that heat rises !!

       

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Winter is over !!!!!!! :)

'San Serriffe' was woken from her hibernation with the first sunny weekend of 2013.  'Winterized' during November by draining the plumbing to avoid the dreaded frost damage, together with a change of oil & fuel filters, etc - all ready for a new boating season :)   Fortunately temperatures have not gone much below - 5c during the winter and no frost damage was evident when we returned to the boat recently with the middle of February bringing blue skies, sunshine and temperatures actually in double figures.

I had not started the engine for two months and it is always with trepidation when the key is turned for the first time after a winter lay-up.  Superb sunshine in recent days  has topped-up the batteries via the solar panel and after the requisite 10/15 seconds glow-heating of the Beta-marine diesel and fingers were un-crossed as she fired instantly.

Our 'Alde' central heating system had stopped working earlier last year.  Approaches to 'River Canal Rescue contract' and Alde proved a waste of time with no local licensed gas fitters on their books that could help. After a lot of trouble I eventually sourced a local guy who is licensed for work on LPG boat gas equipment and he cleaned the burner and flue for a reasonable fee, leaving us with a fully working heating system.
I felt sorry for the RCR guy who tried for several days to find somebody who was licensed to work on boat LPG systems. We both came to the same conclusion that there was plenty of work available on narrowboat LPG gas systems, but nobody qualified to do it !  I had the same problem with a previous boat  that required a new cooker....... I was tempted to do it myself after a futile search for a licensed fitter.
I thankfully resisted the temptation despite the assurances from bar-room 'experts' who said it was 'easy'
......it is of course very 'easy' for gas leaks to send you to the great marina in the sky by the most direct route !!!!!!!!!

We have treated ourselves recently to a new 12 volt Shoreline 'fridge which of course will get very little use until the summer sun comes hopefully blistering into view. This replaced an old 'Batts Marine' refrigerator that came with the boat. This still worked O.K but the freezer compartment  door was constantly falling off and the control knob started to disintegrate.  I tried to find spares for the old 'Batts' but apparently they went out of business some time ago after Mr Batts was found dead on his narrowboat  and two people eventually convicted of manslaughter for the crime !!

Are we having fun yet?  typical  2012 boating weather.

Middle of February is not noted for sunny weekends, but this is the exception that breaks the rule.  Engine checks all done, engine started and with trusty hound 'Suzy' running up and down the roof barking at any passing ducks we headed off into the sunshine. Our 'Morso' stove was lit to chase away any winter damp from the boat interior and it became one of those superb days that narrowboats were invented for, helping the memories fade of last year's awful rain-swept 'summer'

Blue skies - in February. Macclesfield canal heading north from Higher Poynton towards High Lane

All canals look better in the sunshine and the Macclesfield canal is no exception. Together with the Upper Peak Forest canal it is certainly as good as most U.K canals and better than some.
Perhaps I am biased because it is our home 'base' but I never tire of the views available along it's twenty-seven miles length. 

'as good as most'......views from the Macclesfield Canal.

It is great to have an early pre-season opportunity to enjoy a local 'cruise' and check that everything on the boat is working before heading off later this year for a planned trip to Stratford-upon-Avon via the River Seven onto the River Avon returning back through the Midlands.  Our plans will be much dependent on the weather as both the River Avon and River Seven were badly effected by serious flooding during the heaviest U.K rainfall for a 100 years during 2012.  Standing on the back of a narrowboat in continuous rain day after day is bad enough on the canal system, but trying to battle against surging river waters during serious flood conditions is an experience I can do without. So if the 'summer' weather takes a turn for the worst again we might just have to fall back on a plan 'B' involving more canals and less rivers....... 

To-day we have no rain to worry about, just wall to wall sunshine as we head towards High Lane, turning around at the winding hole opposite the entrance to the North Cheshire Cruising Club.

Heading towards High Lane on the Macclesfield Canal.

Entrance to North Cheshire Cruising Club.

 Turning around here we head back towards Higher Poynton with our plan to go as far as Adlington allowing time to return to our mooring before the winter sun begins to dip beyond the horizon in the late afternoon.

Victoria Pit marina........previously called 'Marineville' a name which had perhaps just a little too much association with 'Troy Tempest' and 'Aqua Marina' characters of  'Stingray' fame, hence the new title with a more historic local connection.

It is always nice to see the sunshine bring out the full spectrum of canal users........ boaters, walkers, cyclists, fishermen and even a few canoeists.  Everybody is obviously enjoying the early good weather and hoping to shake off the cobwebs of winter.  A favourite haunt for those who just want to sit and stare is 'The Trading Post'  a small hut next to Braidbar Boat builders. 
This is a favourite stopping place for narrowboats on the 'Macc' wanting diesel fuel, etc and obviously popular for visitors that just want a coffee or ice-cream. Watching boats slowly drift by as you sip a hot drink is one of the most relaxing ways to spend a hour or two......try it !  

Enjoying the winter sunshine...... customers outside 'The Trading Post'

New Braidbar boats awaiting completion in 'Lord Vernon's Wharf'

Heading towards Adlington.

Lyme View Marina.

Enjoying the winter weather near Adlington, Macclesfield canal.

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Trent and Mersey and Bridgewater canals

Leaving the Llangollen canal to the increasing holiday season traffic we headed towards Middlewich on the Middlewich Branch of the Shropshire Union.  Boats of all kinds were gathering for the Middlewich Festival on the weekend starting 15th June - a great event but we fancied a little peace and quiet and decided to head north on the Trent and Mersey towards Preston Brook and the Bridgewater canals into Manchester.

This stretch of the Trent and Mersey from Middlewich to Preston Brook is familiar territory as we moored a previous boat at the Alvechurch base at Anderton for a couple of years.  Moving through Middlewich we started to descend the awkward flight of three that has a ninety-degree bend with a small 'pound' ( water between locks) that can be something of a 'floor-show' for  'Gongoozlers'  or onlookers as boats find very little room to manoeuvre between locks and some dramatic thrashing of propellers and panic rudder movements can be observed as boats jockey for position as they try and avoid traffic coming in the other direction. Even more excitement and drama is added when many of the crews are first-time hirers from Anderton and this is really their first experience with locks.

Negotiating the tight bend in to Middlewich top lock

We descended the 'top' lock with no problem and I had the awkward bend to myself when I was told the lock in front was set for a boat coming up. Jumping off I held the boat with the centre rope and waited for the oncoming boat.......and waited.....and waited. No boat !

Eventually I got news that this boat was stuck in the lock below with no water having left the paddles behind it open which drained the lock and most of the 'pound' above with very little water.... 
oh, dear !!

Middlewich second lock

It was an Alvechurch hire boat. They had managed to open the gates but the water level in the lock and pound was so low that they could not get over the cill and out of the lock.  Denise went with another lady up to the lock above to let some sufficient water down enabling them to float out of the lock.  Water came down, throttle went forward and produced a horrible set of noises from the engine-bay and then stalled.....this boat had serious sounding mechanical problems. After pulling them out of the lock we left them to ring Alvechurch for assistance.  We felt more than sorry for their situation when I was told it was their honeymoon and they had been married the day previous. !!!!

Moving through Middlewich we admired some of the boats gathering for the festival. Many of them being old working boats arriving early to assure a mooring. We joined a 1930s boat in the double lock of 'Big Lock' which is the last lock apart from a small 'stop-lock' until Manchester some thirty miles away.

Visiting for Middlewich festival.......traditional working boats 

A 'Buckby' can on 'Pavo'  ........ a boat originally built in the 1930s

Colourful display on 'Mr Toad' .......a diminutive boat  visiting Middlewich festival

'Elizabeth' converted into a unique pleasure boat in 1936

Sharing 'Big Lock' .....the only double lock on the Trent and Mersey.

This northern stretch of the Trent and Mersey is attractive - in parts.  Perhaps I am looking through rose-tinted glasses but this stretch of the canal from Middlewich to Anderton looks unkempt and overgrown compared to some seven years ago.  I appreciate we are at the height of the 'growing' season and reed banks always look worse this time of year, but some stretches of the canal are reduced to almost a single boat's width.  There in one stretch where a boat has been moored for years on the opposite bank with an old guy inside who always gives a friendly greeting. This boat is still there but now almost covered by a twenty-foot thick bank of weeds.  I am sure the elderly occupant is still alive and kicking because he has carved a gap in the reeds at the side of his boat, so that he has at least a window on the world.

A little like a scene from 'African Queen' ...... reed banks choke the Trent and Mersey

Despite rampant reed growth the Trent and Mersey in this area has a few very attractive areas called 'flashes'  these are flooded parts of the canal that were caused by land-slip during the days of local salt extraction.   They are now in effect 'lakes' adjacent to the main line of the canal with a fatal attraction to stray into their peaceful shallows where you will come to a shuddering halt in a few inches of water..... obey the signs !!

Beautiful , inviting and shallow !   Croxton Flash.

Not all of this stretch is attractive. Approaching the old 'Brunner Mond' (now TATA ) chemical works followed by the unlovely 'Wincham Wharf' reminds you of the original purpose of building canals in the first place  - industry. Most of the industry on canals is now gone and we tend to cruise through  attractive stretches of canal forgetting the Northern Victorian entrepreneurs maxim of  'where there's muck there's money'  which underpinned the whole purpose of canal-building.

'TATA'  ( old Brunner Mond) chemical works.

Wincham Wharf

Wincham Wharf is a hive of canalside 'industry' where boats of all sizes are fitted-out, repaired, painted, blacked or bought  and sold on brokerage . An important range of scarce services without which recreational canal-boating would grind to a halt.

Pressing on towards  Anderton and its famed boat lift down onto the River Weaver we decided to give a trip down onto the river a miss. We needed to replenish our food stocks, fill with water and find a toilet 'pump-out' and that would be difficult on the Weaver as 100 boats were due to attend the forthcoming Northwich Festival. Finding a mooring on the river amongst that lot would be like finding the proverbial rocking-horse droppings !!!!

So we moved on towards the three tunnels of Barnton, Saltersford and Preston Brook tunnels........
Barnton is the first and shortest tunnel heading north. Tunnel engineering was in its infancy when this was built and digging a straight line is not as easy at it sounds, so we have a tunnel with 'kink'

Best method for Barnton is to put the bow into the tunnel mouth, peer into the darkness. no light coming?......  tell your hound to stop barking...........and listen..........no engine noise?.........a long blast of your horn.........no answer?...........then go for it !!!!!!

Saltersford and Preston Brook are a lot longer and therefore timed, you only hope the crew coming the other way have not stretched the time instructions and chanced it....it is along way to back out if you have !!!  Saltersford was not timed until a few years ago and suffered even more from the tunnel engineer's lack of attention, as it has TWO kinks and it is impossible to see from one end to the other.
This as you can imagine was the cause of many a heart stopping moment as a light progressing in the opposite direction would suddenly appear from behind one of the 'kinks'.  Sensibly this is all now a thing of the past - you hope.

Preston Brook tunnel - southern portal.

Blinking in the (overcast) daylight we emerged from Preston Brook tunnel and onto the Bridgewater
Canal.  Although a lot older than the Trent and Mersey it is immediately obvious that this is really how a canal should be built - wide and contoured to the land with no locks all the way into Manchester or Wigan. Even the infrastructure, bridges and perfect stone canal edges for example,
are superb and and in excellent shape after over two-hundred years.

Downside to the Bridgewater ?   Oh yes....... it is obvious that Peel Holdings are not one to spend a penny on services when a halfpenny will do.  All the way from Preston Brook to Castlefield in the centre of Manchester (nearly thirty miles)  there is only ONE water-point. This is encased in a brick box only three foot height and is unsigned on the southern approach, so is virtually impossible to recognise as a water point.  If you do recognise it and stop, you will have to crawl on your hands and knees to attach the hose it is so low. We actually paid £1 and were glad of it to Thorne Marine to use their own private water facility.

Rubbish disposal?.......there is NONE - ZERO - ZILCH.    We thankfully noticed a community rubbish disposal facility near the canal at Stockton Heath  ( hidden from the canal by trees) and were more than pleased to throw our rubbish bags into their skips. This is really for the residents of Stockton Heath and has nothing to do with Peel Holdings .

Castlefield quay in the centre of Manchester ? surely rubbish facilities here ?  I am afraid the answer again is no.  This is visited by hundreds of boats in the summer who all spend money in local bars and shops,etc, bringing much needed revenue to the city centre in these difficult financial times.  How are they rewarded ? virtually told you are not very welcome and by the way take your rotting rubbish with you. We noticed that a lot of rubbish was just dumped near the sanitary station or in litter-bins and we can understand the frustration.

Even mooring is difficult with only a few mooring rings and being concrete nowhere to put a mooring pin.  Come on Peel holdings and Manchester City council make a visit to Manchester a little more welcoming or frankly in my opinion - Manchester especially Castlefield Quay - you are welcome to it.