Return across The Ribble...........

Arriving  at the Ribble Link basin the night before our allotted crossing I had plenty of time to check the boat.
Engine checks in particular.....oil level.....water levels, all seemed O.K.

'She canna take much more of this cap,n'  ..........pushing the engine to catch up with Jack Sparrow in the sailing-boat.   River Ribble.

During our stay in Garstang I had a check around the engine bay and noticed a coolant hose was very close to the sharp edge of the engine bearer. Feeling at the back of the hose I was alarmed to find a deep groove that this edge had rubbed into the wall of the corrugated rubber hose.

This was obviously a disaster waiting to happen.......bad enough on a canal.......a nightmare on the fast running tidal River Ribble where your only option is to throw the anchor out and hope it will hold whilst you sort things out. It would be a vast understatement to say that a scenario like that would be force 10 on the stress counter!!!!

I had a spare hose and decided to tackle this awkward job.
Awkward because like most jobs in a boat engine bay there is very little room to fit a screwdriver on the jubilee clips.  One end of the hose was impossible to even visually see, so the job was done completely by feel.  Venting the swim tank of air also proved a challenge as the vent bolt was difficult to move....and it took some twenty minutes to shift. 

So here we were ready and as prepared as could be to give battle with the Ribble Tide again.  High tide was at 2.30pm and at 1.30pm I was alarmed to see that Savick Brook had very little water as we progressed to the rotating tidal lock.  Scrape, scrape came the ominous sound of the hull against the bottom of the brook.

Stress levels were near the red zone, as with very little steerage 'San Serriffe' banged against the steel piling that stops boats grounding on the exposed banks.

'Do NOT ground here !!!!!!!!!'   I thought.
Throttle forward I managed to keep the boat moving and joined the rest of the 'flotilla' on the floating pontoons awaiting enough water to go over the lock.

Like a disorganized 'Grand national' start, we jostled for position............and we were off!!!!!!!!!!

A large powerful boat took lead position as he struck out into the Ribble and turned into the fast incoming tidal stream. I was puzzled why he just held position without moving forward.
Judging by the white water at his stern his throttle was at maximum and he had a bow-wave like a power boat racer  - but he was not making and inch of progress !!!

Second boat just went sideways in the stream until he managed to head the bow towards the estuary........this really was a white-knuckle ride !

Joining them I glanced at the rev-counter.....2200 revs and I was only holding station with the bank !! Slowly but slowly we all started to make some progress as the tide slackened and found that moving to the right of the river out of the main stream was a great help.

Returning to Tarleton .........River Ribble

More revs rose the engine temp up to 95c, but taking hot water from the Calorifier via the galley hot tap we managed to hold a steady 90C actually passing a few boats in the progress.  Naturally I began to worry that my work on the new hose would hold together and I must admit to a few bitten fingernails.

Passing the Asland lamp into the River Douglas despite the heavy rain, I actually began to relax.  A vibration and a roaring sounded was the cause of some serious panic as I imagined that the new hose had split or become dislodged. Looking upwards I realised it was a Typhoon fighter from nearby British Aerospace Warton at full throttle a few hundred feet above our heads...........lucky guy..... he just went vertical through the cloud layer into the sunshine.



Eventually Tarleton lock came into view with Harry the lock-keeper waving us through the open lock ( level water on both sides) and we were back onto the relevant safety of the canal.

Despite the heavy rain and nearly 5pm in the afternoon we had to go up the Rufford arm to the Leeds and Liverpool canal if we were to remain on schedule for meeting the Canal and River Trust team at Aintree on Friday for our journey to Liverpool . This involved negotiating the six locks and several swing bridges.

We were very lucky to share the locks with the four crew of '5G' who had also come across the Ribble. They did virtually all the locks for us and without their help we would have added perhaps another two hours to our journey............thanks 5G !!!!

 

Lancaster Canal..........

Surviving the 'Millennium Link' Ribble crossing we had a couple of weeks to explore the lock-free Lancaster canal from Preston to the terminus at Tewitfield north of Carnforth.

Joining the Lancaster canal just south of Preston we decided to turn towards Preston and start our exploration from there if only because there is a Canal and River Trust sanitary station about a mile from the end of the canal where we could fill the water tank, etc.

Finding a space on a small visitor mooring near the sanitary station we decided to spend the night there and start afresh in the morning, especially as there was a few shops nearby to top-up with groceries.

I had been chatting to a local boater and his opinion of the Lancaster canal was simply that the further north you go the better the canal and surrounding countryside becomes......so off we went to take his advice.


Cruising the first few miles towards Swillbrook seemed to prove his observations as we progressed through some uninspiring countryside that gave way to pleasant green farmland with Pennine views off to the right . Together with the added bonus of the sunshine chasing the clouds away everything started to visually improve.

Lancaster Canal

I had asked the owner of a boatyard at Swillbrook if he sold diesel. He had a sign clearly stating 'DIESEL' but I was suspicious after being warned that there was NO fuel sales from  marinas and boatyards on the Lancaster canal.

" No sorry....... we do not sell fuel, try next marina on the right " he replied.

Next on the right was 'Moon's Bridge' marina....and yes there was a diesel pump and a nice lady in the Marina shop ready to sell some to you. So our tanks was topped up to the brim with some forty litres or so..........unfortunately there was no 'split' (propulsion/heating) on tax offered so you have to buy all the fuel at the higher price..........oh well, you pay your money and make your choice.


A serious word of warning at this point ......if you are planning to explore the Lancaster canal in the future, this is the only marina in the whole forty miles length of the canal that sells fuel.  Many are marked in Nicholson's guide as selling fuel, but time has overtaken this information and they no longer offer that service. I presume because they cannot be bothered with the current  propulsion/domestic 'tax-split' paperwork regulations or cannot afford the mooring 'space' dedicated for a fuel point.  Thankfully marinas on the rest of the canal system do go to the trouble of supplying fuel or recreational boating  would simply disappear and the canals with it.

One marina we rang was 'Nu-way Acorn' in Carnforth which Nicholson's guide stated sold diesel.  A definite 'NO' was the answer.  A word to the wise though if you are short of fuel in Carnforth there is a petrol station right next to the canal and you can walk the few yards to the pumps with your 'Gerry' can and obtain fuel ( enough to get you back to Moon's Bridge perhaps)

Lady behind the counter said she did a good trade from boaters both petrol and diesel. One option is a company that 'deliver' near Garstang I was told......but like many others I am reluctant to carry 20-40 litres of fuel any distance back to the boat if I can avoid it.

One of the first visitor moorings (48 hours) we visited was Bilsborrow complete with a sanitary station. Considering the Lancaster canal is only forty miles in length it is well blessed with good sanitary stations complete with equally good refuse disposal points - not always the case on some other canals.

Owd Nell's Tavern, Bilsborrow.

 Mooring for the night the night at Bilsborrow we enjoyed a few beers and something to eat at the friendly 'Owd Nell's' pub.  Our next stop stop was Garstang - an attractive old town that I must admit I have never visited before.  Again there are 48 hour visitor mooring here that are obviously very popular at weekends with local boaters.

Garstang was in my judgement an absolute delight with an attractive old main street with just about everything you could wish for.......pubs,restaurants,butchers,small supermarkets, etc.  If Garstang has ain't got it - you don't need it.

Wyre aqueduct, Garstang

Garstang

We stayed a couple of days here and thoroughly enjoyed it. There is an excellent sanitary station as you leave Garstang
easily spotted on the right of the canal complete with pump-out equipment if you need it.


We were blessed with wall to wall sunshine as we moved on towards Lancaster.  Blue skies and warm sunshine proved that even the British summer can be kind and the  surrounding green farmland looked just superb .

Take care the sides of the Lancaster Canal are shallow!!!!!!!!

Passing the Glasson branch we resisted the temptation to do the six locks down into Glasson dock, if only for the reason that we would have to do the same six locks back up again!!!!!  Perhaps we missed out on a night moored with the sea-going boats in the the dock.

Passing on through scenery that the Lancaster canal is renowned for we entered the centre Lancaster with a plentiful supply of 48-hour visitor moorings. We found most of these moorings already taken but managed to squeeze in at the end of the line.  

Lancaster canal........Lancaster centre moorings.

We stayed the maximum allowed here and decided to explore Lancaster visiting Lancaster Castle, Maritime museum and Lancaster Priory......you really need more than 48 hours to enjoy Lancaster and the moorings here were until recently 7 days, but presumably to give everybody a fairer chance of mooring it has been reduced to 48 hours. 

We did managed to find time to visit the popular 'CAMRA' recommended 'Water Witch' pub which is canal-side near these moorings and sells a full range of superb craft beers. I did not go completely through every choice available but I tried my best !!  

Water Witch pub..........Lancaster.

Our 48 hour mooring period came far to quickly to an end and reluctantly leaving the rest of the beers in the 'Water Witch' for another time, we moved on towards Hest Bank adjacent to the sands of Morecambe bay.

A couple of miles out of Lancaster is the imposing Lune aqueduct that carries you some 60ft over the surprisingly wide River Lune. Lancaster was a major port for visiting sailing ships from all over the world sailing into the Lune until ships really became too big for the tidal river to handle and the sea trade with Lancaster eventually ceased.

Crossing the Lune aqueduct

River Lune from the aqueduct

Hest bank is again a 48 hour maximum visitor mooring, but many boats seem to outstay their welcome so it can be a little tricky to find a mooring.  The Lancaster canal is very shallow at the edges and the banking here is in poor condition making mooring the boat problematic and you really need to use your 'gang-plank' on occasions. So a another word of warning regarding the Lancaster canal if you or any of your 'crew' have any mobility problems and cannot balance along a plank onto the tow-path then you might be confined to the boat on occasions.


We took the opportunity to visit nearby Morecambe and Morecambe bay with the clear weather giving amazing views over towards the Lake district.........

Life's a beach..........time to admire the view. Looking over Morecambe bay to the Lake District

Morecambe bay near Hest bank

Mother and child sculpture, Morecambe Bay.

 Again we reluctantly left Hest Bank and moved on towards Carnforth where we found a garage next to the canal and topped up our fuel with our 20 litre 'Gerry' can. Carnforth has some visitor moorings but again impossible to moor close-into the bank despite recent new bank-pilings.


We eventually managed to moor outside the 'Canal Turn' pub which we had avoided because of a sign restricting mooring at stated times during morning and late afternoon for a 'water-bus' stop. We had seen a few of these with boats moored on them and the licensee of the 'Canal Turn' mentioned that he had not seen the 'Water-bus' visit for over twelve months and suggested we moor and move if it actually did arrive.

Fibre-glass cruisers predominate on the Lancaster Canal.

Carnforth is a great place to stop.......Sanitary station, Tesco superstore; chip shop; laundrette.......everything a visiting boater could need including a great base to visit the Lake district.


We were now only three or four miles from the canal terminus at Tewitfield and it was with genuine regret that that we came to the current end of the canal that originally continued on to Kendal......let us hope that perhaps money and the will can be found to restore the full length of Lancaster canal at some time in the future......



 








   

Crossing the Ribble............Day two.

A quiet night in Preston Dock - hardly a a romantic film or song title, but we were more than happy just to relax after the excitement of the previous day. 

On the Preston Docks visitor moorings

Something to eat, a glass or two of wine and we were as relaxed as could be and awoke refreshed and ready for another day on the Ribble.  My mobile rang about 11am........

"Hi, it's Riversway control here.......Canal and River Trust guys have just rang and asked to let you out of the dock.......so if you are O.K to go, I have another boat ready and you can share the lock "    Suggested the unseen guy in the glass tower above the dock.

" Will be with you in two minutes......many thanks "  I replied.

Engine started, ropes off and I reversed into the blustery open dock where a 'real' sea-going boat was keeping station so that he could see the green 'ready' light that informed you the road bridge had been swung and the sea-lock was ready.

I managed to reverse into position- as if I knew what I was doing - waiting for the green light.   Bridge turned open, red light turned green and I shot into the lock........

"Which side are you going for ?? "  shouted Cap'n Denise
" Port Side to miss the silt"      I replied
'Listen to me......Port? Port? what happened to 'left' I am taking this boaty thing far too seriously' I thought.

Waiting in the lock at Preston Dock.

Putting a bow and stern line around the lock-wall chains really was not necessary 
as the levels between lock and river were almost the same..........but still good practice as it is difficult to judge the different levels from your point of view and turbulence in the lock
could be the cause of a few embarrassing pirouettes, especially with a 'proper'  boat captain looking on.

Off we went into the river not sparing the horses at about 2300 + revs.  I rang the Canal and River Trust guys at the Savick brook rotating lock and informed them we were out of the dock and that we would be with them ASAP...........

Leaving Preston dock for Savick Brook and the Lancaster canal

I had channel 14 on the VHF and could hear the captain in the 'proper' boat behind informing Riversway control that his destination was the Isle of Man.............

Perhaps I should inform them that my destination was Savick Brook and the |Lancaster Canal........I thought.

Perhaps not...........I thought again.

A run of about a mile or two and we could the see the welcoming steady green light at the entrance to Savick Brook.   I remembered that the west (left if going in ) side of the entrance had a sandbank, so I did a ninety degree and allowed a little room for drift and obviously stuck to the east side.

A green light ( yes I know it looks white on the picture) shows the entrance to Savick Brook

No problem as there was plenty of water in the brook and Andrew the friendly Canal and River Trust guy was waiting with the lock open........phew, made it this time.

Rotating sea lock at Savick Brook.

We moored on the holding pontoons beyond the lock and Andrew explained that he was waiting for boats from Tarleton and we had about an hour to wait.   Right on time after an hour or so a single boat arrived with the crew shaking their heads at our enquiry if they had a good crossing.

"Engine temperature was going into the red and we had to drain the hot water from the
and calorifier to keep it going worse" they said looking a little jaded.

"How far behind are the other boats?"  we asked.

" A long way.......one has broken down with a split hose and the other is towing it to Preston Dock " was the reply......

" I am getting too old for this - I think I will get the bus back" joked the lady crew member with another shake of the head.

So we were not the only people to have an adventurous Ribble crossing.   No point in waiting now so we both went up the flight of locks, culminating in the three 'staircase'
locks.

Entering the staircase lock is little tricky because most larger boats have to reverse into the lock as there is not enough room before the lock to turn around. Our companions managed to turn their smaller boat and it was the first time I had been in a lock with one boat pointing forward and the other backward !!!!

Staircase lock leading to the Lancaster canal.

A new steel sculpture has been erected above the staircase lock. It is self-explanatory
with a narrowboat full of tools that would have been used to construct canals. Apparently
it replaced a wooded sculpture of a nude man holding his vital parts - perhaps there was a contact somehow with canals - but like many others perhaps it was lost on me.   Never mind we are here to visit the Lancaster canal and despite our struggle to cross the River Ribble I am sure will be all worth it.

More to follow on the Lancaster canal............

Crossing the Ribble........day one

Turning onto the Rufford Branch of the Leeds and Liverpool canal we started to work through the wide locks that would take us to the terminus of the canal at Tarleton and the sea lock that would take us onto the tidal River Douglas and River Ribble to access the Ribble Link at Savick Brook to join the Lancaster Canal.

All the locks along the Rufford branch seem have their differences and are slow going for a single boat crew.  Old fashioned 'handcuff' screw anti-vandal locks are fitted to most of the paddles and are not the usual 'spring-open' type, being time consuming to open and close. There are even some very old fashioned wooden lever paddles that are pulled up with a large handle to open.


Nearing Tarleton the tow-path disappears and the banks are taken over with weed and some of this promptly wound itself around the propeller slowing it down as efficiently as any plastic bag or rope............ it took ten minutes down the weed-hatch to clear that little lot.

Last stretch towards Tarleton has no tow path.

Plenty of weed around the propeller

Three swing bridges need to be operated before Tarleton and then some good 48-hour visitor mooring are to be found, principally used for those crossing the River Ribble.



Harry, the Tarleton lock keeper visited us in the afternoon and gave us a detailed briefing for our crossing complete with a book of photographs of what landmarks to note. Very thorough of him..............and very helpful.


Our date with the morning tide at the lock was 9.30am the following morning.  Two steel narrowboats went first and some ten minutes later we entered the lock in company with a fibre-glass cruiser.

Waiting for Tarleton Lock to enter the River Douglas

Following instructions to keep to the left and 'go for it' as we entered the strong incoming tide. This is sound advice as if you just nudge the bow into the stream it is possible that you would be turned inland by the current rushing into the River Douglas.


Our companion fibre-glass cruiser soon outstripped us against the oncoming tide and started to pull ahead.  Most cruisers will show a clean pair of heels to a narrowboat because of their light weight and he soon disappeared from view.  After a couple miles struggling against the tide with 2300 revs on the dial I really did not want to push our 38hp Beta Marine engine much further as it becomes a little  uncomfortable after that.

Boat yard on the River Douglas

A large sea-going vessel came from behind and slowly overtook us.   I cast a worried eye on the engine temperature gauge that was way, way over to the 'right' of it's normal position and was touching some 100 degrees. On the return trip we tried the trick of opening the galley hot water tap occasionally to reduce the engine temperature - it really does work!!   I could see the British Aerospace airfield of Wharton on the horizon and spotted the large hangars that Harry the lock-keeper had advised we steer to locate the all important 'Astland Lamp' navigational perch.

Looking to the Ribble Estuary as we turn into the River Ribble

Rounding the Astland lamp into the River Ribble

Astland lamp slightly on our starboard bow we started to curve around it and into the River Ribble.   As the Ribble turns east inland I hoped that slack water on the turning tide would help our progress - it did and the banks seemed to be going past at a respectable rate. It is a difficult 'call' to balance between thrashing the engine into temperature ranges that could cause problems and making progress before the lack of water on the 'Seagate' at Savick would mean a divert to Preston Lock.

Looking back towards the Ribble estuary.........BaE Wharton on skyline (right)

We could see a steady clear 'green' light at Savick  ( meaning it was O.K to enter) and started to be relieved that all would be O.K.    A few minutes later and our hopes were dashed as Canal and River Trust's 'Andrew' rang us on the mobile and gave us the bad news that the lock was now inoperable because of the dropping water level.


We were instructed to divert to Preston dock a couple of miles further on and that they had been informed.  Tide had really turned against us now and we progressed slowly towards the dock which is unseen from Savick.  We eventually sighted the entrance and came into the dock hugging the south wall as the north wall is silted as the 'Skipper's Guide' had mentioned.

Entering Preston dock

Entering the massive entrance lock a road bridge parted for us and we roped onto the lock wall chains to ascend gently to marina level and then turn left moor at the visitor moorings............phew !!!     We will have another 'go' tomorrow !!!!!

Safe and sound - in Preston Dock

Towards the Ribble........joining the Leeds and Liverpool canal.

Manchester left behind we moved along the Bridgewater canal towards sunny Wigan....it really was sunny.  Strange how the first spell of warm weather In the U.K seems draining - very different from genuinely hot countries it must be something to do with the humidity.

Crossing the Manchester Ship canal to Worsley - Barton swing bridge.

Crossing the Manchester ship canal we had moved through the birthplace of U.K canals in  Worsley which even boasts a lighthouse ........in the back of a garden !!

'Light-house'  Worsley

We moored for 24 hours near Plank Lane swing bridge which boasts a water point so we could use our small washing machine and then re-fill the water tank. Finding the water point was a challenge - it is new type being only about 18 inches tall and unsigned a looking for all the world like some sort of electrical cable access point.

A close inspection on hands and knees with a magnifying glass found an etched maker's plate on brushed aluminum in small type with the word 'standpipes'  - 'elementary my dear Dr Watson.'

My 'watermate' key fitting the padlock underneath had the puzzle solved completely....


Our speedy dash to Wigan a day later was delayed when the dreaded 'serious things around the prop' vibration started a few miles into the day.  Weed hatch opened, pond gloves on and I found a very large heavy plastic 'Baker's Dog Food' bag wrapped around the propeller together with other assorted plastic bags and a bit of old rope just to make things difficult.

Clearing plastic bags from around the propeller.

Oh well, I have seen worse. Hands washed, cup of tea and we were on our way.

Large double locks going into Wigan and beyond are a bit of a challenge with anti-vandal locks to open and lock afterwards. A chain arrangement to open and close the gates on one lock and a large metal rod on the gates beam of another that dug into the ground after opening or closing the gates........strange , but it seems to work.


As we were passing the Canal and River Trust office in Wigan I decided to purchase a CRT 'pump-out' card for use in their far and few pump out machines.

"How many would you like ?" was the fair question
"How much are they ?" my normal question on purchasing anything.....
"£16.75p"  was the reply
.........a meaningful silence from myself followed by...........
" Oh, wow.....just the one then.....at that price, I will try my luck with marinas, etc"
I replied in my best Victor Meldrew style.

Even the most expensive marina/fuel point I have visited has never charged that much.............and THEY do the job for you ( mostly).


Passing through the Wigan locks we received a 'phone call from our son Andrew that he was coming to Wigan for the afternoon together with our grand-daughter to see us for a couple of hours.   Andrew is a wheelchair user and canal towpaths are not ideal for a rendezvous so we suggested meeting at 'The Orwell' bar - part of the famous 'Wigan Pier'.

I think if I ran a business on Wigan 'pier' as I would ensure moorings for passing boat customers........surely all 'piers' have moorings if only to catch passing trade.

Mooring or not Wigan Pier's 'Orwell' bar looked liked the 'Mary Celeste' with no lights and no sign of any customers or staff.  Closed doors and an empty car park seemed to suggest that they were closed for lunch.............perhaps Tuesday is a slow day in Wigan.

With no option but to look for another 'watering hole' we worked through the next two locks and a further couple of miles to meet Andrew at the pleasantly situated canal-side 'Crooke Hall Inn' .

Moorings at the 'Crooke Hall Inn' are private moorings, but local boaters on nearby boats suggested we moor as the regular moorers were 'out' for the summer.  This proved to be perfect as Andrew could bring his wheelchair across the beer-garden and right next to the boat where we had a round of excellent pub-meals and several rounds of drinks.  So all was well that ended well...........

Family visit at the excellent 'Crooke Hall Inn'

Leaving Crooke the following day we moved on towards Parbold in glorious sunshine.
It was three years previous we had come this way when we completed our 'coast to coast' cruise
(see previous post of that name) going from Salthouse dock in Liverpool to Boston in Lincolnshire.

I distinctly remember having great difficulty finding a refuse disposal point in this locality.In fact the last Canal River Trust bins had been a long way back in Anderton
 ( none in Manchester) and we were having the same problem this time.

We had noticed a 'refuse point' marked in Nicholson's Guide at Bridge 35 just past Parbold on that occasion but were unable to find it.  Asking a local boater he smiled knowingly in reply..........

" Oh yes, it IS there.......they hide it so it is not used too often !!!!!

Well I am here to tell you he was perfectly correct.......if you are looking for the Canal and River Trust refuse point near bridge 35 on the Leeds and Liverpool - the secret is OUT.... it is laying empty behind the trees.

This is not the only example of 'hidden' refuse points we have discovered and can only come to the conclusion that it is Canal and River Trust policy to reduce the occasions when they pay to have the bins emptied.......if nobody knows they are there nobody can use them.

Come on Canal and River Trust give us a sign......and save boaters cruising the system loaded to the gunnels with rotting refuse.

'Secret' Canal and River Trust refuse disposal point hidden behind the trees.

Moving through a succession on swing bridges we passed the Rufford arm and continued on towards Scarisbrick marina where we topped up with fuel and are presently moored surrounded by pleasant farm land in glorious weather waiting a few days before our date with a morning tide to cross the River Ribble and join the Lancaster canal.


Moor to follow in the next post..............

Towards the River Ribble........Trent and Mersey and Bridgewater.

Our cruise project for 2014 is the crossing of the 'Ribble Link' across the tidal River Ribble and onto the Lancaster Canal.  We had arranged this crossing a few months ago with Canal and River Trust and our appointed rendezvous with other boats doing the crossing on a suitable tide at 8.30am on the 24th June............

So far so good for the arrangements, all we have to do now is progress via the Macclesfield, Trent and Mersey, Bridgewater and Leeds and Liverpool canals  and keep our finger crossed for good weather.



Reaching Bosley locks on the Macclesfield canal we were pleasantly surprised to descend the flight without actually being well and truly soaked in a downpour which is usually par for the course as we pass through this set of locks which is a precursor for most of our travels.

Descending Bosley Locks. Macclesfield Canal

Capitan Denise is normally chief lock grappler whilst I do the technically demanding job of steering - turning the tiller arm slightly to the left or right as necessary. Damaging her foot recently had required a visit to Macclesfield General Hospital, fortunately nothing was broken but in some considerable pain she volunteered to steer the boat and I became an apprentice lock-operative paying sharp attention to her shouted advice and trying not to sink the boat. I never realised how much your muscles hurt after an afternoon of lock-wheeling. …............. I hope the foot mends soon :)



Joining the Trent and Mersey I had the delight of descending the heavily locked 'Heartbreak Hill' . Most of these locks are in pairs and we had the good fortune to descend most of the locks with another boat for company which made the task pleasant as operating locks is a very social exercise when other boats are with you. Capitan Denise said she preferred doing the locks as being at the bottom of a lock was a lonely occupation.

Negotiating 'Heartbreak Hill' on the Trent and Mersey canal

Stopping for the evening about a mile from the M56 we were far enough away for the traffic noise to be reduced to a low level hum.  Reflecting on the world of difference between the two modes of travel  that are nearly two centuries apart comparing the unhurried peace of the canals with the constant headlong rush of the motorways..... I am still confident that these horseless carriages and lorry thingybobs are just a passing fad and will never catch on.

Sailing into the sunset - Trent and Mersey canal near Wheelock.

The following morning brought s short stop for water at Wheelock services and then we pressed on towards the many delights of Middlewich for an evening stop within a short distance of pubs; supermarkets; Chinese take-aways and all the essential requirements boat-crews would need.

Larder full of goodies we looked at the weather forcast for the following day - it was awful. Rain, followed by rain with a 99% chance of rain in-between. Looking out of the window at a decision time of about 8,30am the following morning we noticed it had actually stopped raining. So against all sound sense we decided to push on - BIG mistake !!

Ready for the weather - ship's dog 'Suzy'

Our journey to Anderton was undertaken in unrelenting torrential rain. This was the stuff of the Amazon rain forests, weapons grade rain that poured off my waterproofs and into my boots. A hot cup of tea on the roof was constantly 'topped-up' with cold rain water. This was not for the faint-hearted type of rain and I reflected that I really should patent windscreen-wipers for spectacles - I am sure there is a big market - certainly in the U.K !!!!!!


Anderton with it's famous boat-lift down onto the River Weaver was our next stop taking advantage of the 48 hour moorings to chill-out for a couple of days. Continuing along the Trent and Mersey to the tunnels of Barnton, Saltersford and Preston Brook remembered from the days when as we used to moor a previous boat at Anderton marina.

Barnton tunnel is not a 'timed' passage like the other three as you can see the opposite exit. All that is required is to nose into the tunnel, have a look and go for it if all is clear with perhaps a warning blast of the horn.  Saltersford and Preston Brook require a wait for the allotted time as illustrated by the green zone on a clock face at the entrances.   Saltersford used to be left to the discretion of the boat crew some years ago and had no time restriction. This naturally caused some alarm and despondency as on occasions boats met each other head-on in the dark tunnel and is now very sensibly a 'timed' passage.

Barnton tunnel.

Are we having fun yet?.......braving the rain as I hold the boat to the tunnel mooring at Saltersford waiting for a timed passage through.

Leaving Preston Brook we were now on the wide Bridgewater and heading towards Lymm - one of our favourite 'watering holes' .  We were very fortunate to find a mooring spot on the 'town side' near to the all the shops, pubs in this delightful village.

Lymm Village

Lymm Village weir

Bridgewater Canal - Lymm

Lymm actually seems to welcome boaters - and there are certainly lots of shops, pubs and restaurants to spend your money which is taken with a smile............

It never ceases to amaze me that with over 2000 miles of canal system that you see the same friendly people time and time again in widely spread locations...... for example we met a couple called Eric and Debbie on their boat 'Georgina' in central London and then a couple of years later on the Llangollen canal and last year the Grand Union. On this occasion they were moored in Middlewich and we spent a boozy afternoon with them in the 'Golden Fleece' in Lymm. It certainly is a great community where the nice people seem to appear more times than the not so nice.......

Eric owner of 'Georgina' keeps a tidy ship.

leaving Lymm after a couple of days we headed towards Castlefield in Central Manchester.  I am going to give an unashamed 'plug' for Stretford Marine services where we stopped for fuel and a toilet tank 'pump out'...... a friendly guy who insisted on doing a thorough job of the 'pump out' which in not always the case.  A water point was also provided in the shape of the traditional standard cast iron 'British Waterways' pipe which is confusing as this is the Bridgewater Canal controlled by Peel Holdings....I am sure somebody will explain.

Clean toilet, fuel and water tanks full and we were on our way towards Castlefield in central Manchester passing MUFC football ground on the way.

'Sir Alex Ferguson' stand viewed from the Bridgewater canal approaching Castlefield.

Approaching Castlefield, Manchester.

ching castlefield

Castlefield's fortunes seems to ebb and flow with the opening and closing of the various pubs and clubs around the perimeter. Last time we visited a couple of years ago some of the bars had closed and things were looking neglected and weary worn with empty buildings.   One major pub/restaurant chain has opened 'The Wharf' pub - a major location near the entrance to the basin and things look better and more 'alive' . We gave this a thorough market research and I can report a full range of guest beers and lagers with friendly staff who seemed pleased to serve - how about that for a novelty.

Castlefield Wharf

A great location for the maximum mooring allowed (72 hours) with the best advice I can give is to moor further up the arm if possible to avoid the late night sound of people enjoying themselves coming from one of the clubs. If you are not old, decrepit and grumpy like us perhaps the best advice is go and join them !!!!

'San Serriffe' moored ( in a quiet spot) for the night. Castlefield, Manchester

On a practical note there is a water-point on the left before reaching Castlefield but no rubbish disposal facilities so make sure you have plenty of black bin bags to store it.


WE are now on the Leeds and Liverpool canal heading towards Wigan and our date with the Ribble crossing....................... more to follow.

Misty, Moisty, March Morning..........

The long wet winter seems to have hesitated from its attempts to submerge the British Isles as the first half of March brought some much needed sunshine to lift our spirits.

Last week saw the daffodils blooming, birds singing, and  sunshine from a bright blue sky, now that is definitely more like it.........


Time for a day or two on the boat perhaps, charge the batteries of both the boat and the soul. Two of the most sunny days last week were 'wasted' with hospital and dental appointments - both signs of getting older unfortunately.


Eventually free of these irksome commitments we arrived at the boat that seemed to sulk after being left to fend for its self against the winter deluge. Problems started immediately ....rain had rusted the inner mechanism of the padlock securing the door and it refused to open. A few minutes of wrestling the key and a few choice mutterings under my breath eventually resorting to brute strength and giving it a good talking to...............
 "Bloody open you cheap piece of Chinese c..p ironmongery !"
 .......it duly obliged and I thanked it by squirting some oil into its innards as I should have done before the winter.

"Could you turn the gas on please and I will put the kettle on " suggested Captain Denise.

" O.K - where are the gas locker keys?" I asked
" Try the key hooks"  was the withering answer
"There are so many keys on here we must sort them out....throw some away..I can't remember which is which " I retorted.
" Try the ones with the same name as the padlock" was the patient answer.
" Yeah, sure, there are at least six keys with the bloody 'tri-circle' symbol of Chinese excellence" I observed.
" Try them all and then put a label on the one that works"  was the quiet reply. 
" I find sarcasm the lowest form of wit " I muttered to myself.
"What?" said Captain Denise.
"Nothing, nothing" I replied.

Ten minutes later the kettle was on, fire in the 'Morso' stove was burning with a friendly crackle and the engine started with the usual initial vibration that settled down to that comforting hum that spreads through the boat as 'San Serriffe' woke from her winter slumber.

Steaming cup of coffee to hand, and prop turning, we nudged off the mooring into the misty, moisty, March morning...........

Misty, moisty, March morning - Macclesfield Canal

 Not many boaters about this time of year, but there were curling wisps of smoke coming from the occasional narrowboat chimney with occupants inside content to go nowhere and stay warm on this chilly March morning.

We had decided to go to Gurnett aqueduct south of Macclesfield and stay overnight mooring near the 'Old King's Head' allowing for the possibility of enjoying a libation or two ( I like to plan ahead) in this 17th century Inn that was once visited by Bonnie Prince Charlie. Also James Brindley the famous early canal engineer was a possible visitor when he was an apprentice a few hundred yards down the road...all the best people booze in the 'Old King's Head'

We were pointing the 'wrong' way so had to turn in the winding hole opposite North Cheshire Cruising Club and back towards Higher Poynton and on towards Macclesfield.

It really was a cold misty morning with only the positive weather forecast promising sunshine in the afternoon .Our Pesty Westie Suzy curled up on the warm engine hatch and decided to have a power nap to conserve energy in preparation for her continual lifelong battle against all things ducks.


Huddled in a heavy coat and a 'Beanie' hat to keep my brains warm, I suggested perhaps another hot coffee would be a good idea - perhaps that 'special' coffee that tastes of rum. It's amazing what different flavours Nescafe can do nowadays. This duly appeared and the world looked brighter, warmer and altogether a better place.

Gurnett aqueduct

 Late afternoon and some weak winter sunshine saw us moored on Gurnett aqueduct and we luxuriated in the warmth of the cabin courtesy of the glowing Morso stove.  Pesky hound Suzy had the same idea and sat next to the stove until her fur started to smoke........ 

"Move you silly dog or you will spontaneously combust !"  I shouted, but my efforts fell on deaf ears. A couple of biscuits did the trick and she escaped bursting into flames because of my ruse to place the biscuits on the carpet away from the fire - she eventually went back to her original position and  waited patiently for another clever 'ruse' involving biscuits.

Morning was another 'misty' one again but the sun battled through and for a couple of hours we had idyllic bright blue sky. We moved onwards through Sutton and towards a point where we could turn around and head back home after our first 'cruise' of the season.

Sailing on Sunday sunshine - heading towards Sutton, Macclesfield canal

 Hopefully the weather will have improved when we go 'on tour' during the summer. We will be crossing the tidal 'Ribble Link' onto the Lancaster canal and then returning a few weeks later back onto the Leeds & Liverpool canal where we will meet Canal & River Trust staff at Aintree who will help us through the swing bridges and locks down into the Liverpool Link and a mooring in Salthouse dock............