Croeso i Gymru........ 'Welcome to Wales'
A return to Wales and the 'land of my fathers' via the Llangollen canal is always an attractive cruise option, especially after some seven years since we last visited. 'My fathers' were actually from South Wales, but I always feel like I am 'coming home' wherever we happen to cross the English border .
William Blake of course termed England as a 'green and pleasant land' but that description also holds true of North Wales as you progress further and further towards Llangollen and its UNESCO World Heritage site of an eleven miles section of the Llangollen canal including Telford's breathtaking Pontcysyllte aqueduct. In good company with other World Heritage sights such as the little known Taj Mahal and the Wall of China, Pontcysyllte is well worth a visit.........
Unlike some narrowboat owners who live permanently on board, we are 'landlubbers' during the winter
and leave our home moorings at about .......er well......now! The 'Merry month of May' as they say, is perhaps sometimes 'merry' only with a drink or two. This early in May is still cold and waiting for summer temperatures to be able to 'cast a clout' donning shorts and t-shirts as normal wear. Don't hold your breath waiting for summer.......go for it !
'Going for it' always seems to entail moving the contents of our house to the boat. At least two or three car trips. Food ; clothes; dog; dog's food, dog's toys; dog's bed and even a plant-trough full of 'prized' Orchids that never seem to flower. Perhaps they will after a few weeks catching the sun in the cratch, but until then they seem to resemble a floating Cannabis farm. They only seem to catch me as I try to work around them changing gas bottles, etc. Perhaps you can guess that it is certainly not me that has an interest in non-flowering Orchids.
May in the U.K is not exactly tropical but as we progressed along the Macclesfield canal at the start of our journey we did notice an Alligator or perhaps Crocodile ( not sure of the difference)at the side of the canal near Bollington so perhaps there is something in this global warming business.....
As we progressed down through Bosley locks a couple of 'River and Canal Trust' guys dressed in their original British Waterways jumpers leapt to our aid and helped us down a few locks - thanks guys!
They mentioned that there was a couple of these new-fangled volunteer lock-keepers on the flight
somewhere. After our 'BW' friends left we watched as a couple of guys with hi-viz jackets walked up the flight. In addition to hi-viz yellow jackets they were comprehensively equipped for safety with auto - inflatable life-jackets and gleaming new windlasses.
''This is our lucky day ' I thought as I looked forward to some help down the locks.......they were smiling and friendly as they approached.
"Hello, O.K?" they beamed.
"Yes, not bad thanks...." I shouted as Denise worked the locks like a Trojan.
A further beaming smile and they were gone, leaving us to it.......I assume for an early tea. Oh, well they are volunteers and perhaps we will be lucky next time !!
In the event an Alvechurch hire boat crew who were mob-handed joined us and our combined efforts made an easy descent of Bosley Locks.
We moored for the evening near the brooding 'Bosley Cloud' high ground and woke in the morning to a dawn chorus of spring bird-call and sunshine making a dappled 'Pollyanna' like pattern on the boat ceiling as if being passed through crystal. Taking 'Suzy' for her morning walk I emerged from the boat to a superb morning........ this is certainly what we signed up for :)
Cruising between here and Kidsgrove is to have a moving grandstand seat enabling you to watch some of the very best of the Cheshire scenery float by, including country houses that seemed to have been untouched by passing centuries...... this was a morning to appreciate them all as the sunshine made everything especially magical.
As always this idyllic weather situation started to degenerate as the day grew older. A dog walker called out.............. " Weather will hold until 4pm I believe " was her confident prediction.
'Weather' did not 'hold' and it was raining at 2pm as we negotiated the locks through Kidsgrove on the Trent and Mersey canal ........so much for weather predictions..........good ones are always wrong !!!
Climbing the long lock flight up the Trent and Mersey called 'Heartbreak Hill' by the old work-boat crews, we set our face to the driving rain until we gave up the uneven struggle when both the wind and rain joined forces and we moored for the night at Rode Heath. A fire was lit in the 'Morso' stove just to raise our spirits as well as the the temperature inside the boat...........
Working uphill to the small canalside village of Wheelock the wind became vindictive as we tried to stop at the next lock-mooring and despite a fast grasp of the centre rope 'San Serriffe' sailed off to the other side of the canal as the full force pushed her sideways. Leaping on the stern I managed to wrestle her off the opposite bank and pointed her bow towards the lock opening, crabbing sideways
into the lock mouth.
"Give us a break" were my thoughts as I wished for a world without gusting winds and rain.......perhaps one day ....... but don't hold your breath !!!
Leaving the gusting winds to howl at the windows we moored at Wheelock for the day, lit the fire and gave up the uneven fight.....do your worse we thought, we will watch from the warmth of the boat.
Moving onto Middlewich the following morning thankfully brought a benign day with sunshine to help us on our way. Moving though the King's lock near the centre of Middlewich, I noticed a chip shop just across the road. Leaving the boat at the lock I dashed across the road and purchased two pieces of Cod and a portion of chips.
Mooring after moving through the Wardle Canal onto the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union we tried our best with a giant portion of chips, Defeated by the amount we gave the remainder to our trusty hound 'Suzy' who tried her best, but also gave up......these were serious portions of fish and chips !!!!!!!!
After a pleasant evening moored outside the 'Barbridge Inn' on the Shropshire Union we turned right onto the Llangollen canal at Hurleston. Many years ago ' San Serriffe ' had become stuck in this first lock on the Llangollen canal. Previous owner Don McPhee had moved into the lock and the boat became well and truly jammed. He had taken up the fenders as required on this warped and notoriously narrow lock, but the boat was too wide !!!!!!!!!!!
After a long time the boat was wrestled free and the hull makers 'Chappel and Wright' were approached for a solution. 'San Serriffe' was found to be over an inch wider than 6' 10"near the front bulkhead and a 'fix' was devised by making a foot or so of the rubbing strakes removable at that point. Since our ownership of the last four years we have moved through hundreds of locks over a fair amount of the system without moving the strakes.......Hurleston 1st lock is certainly a rogue lock with only just 6' 10" width.
I knew of this history and I also knew that Don had taken it through the lock in 2006 with no problem whatsoever. I had discussed this with a mutual friend who had crewed for him that day and came to the conclusion ( wrongly) that the lock wall had at long last been re-built to sensible proportions.
I moved 'San Serriffe' into the lock very gently and my heart sank as it quickly jammed. I looked at the wall and realised it was just as bad if not worse than I remember when I took another boat through some years ago.
Full reverse made not the slightest impression and we were well and truly stuck. Two boats attempted to tow me out, without success. A gentleman on 'Natterjack' suggested a 'snatch' tow
and after a few attempts his trusty Gardner engine did the trick pulling 'San Serriffe' from the clutching embrace of this rogue lock.
I had rang British Waterways and they sent a crew from Norbury Junction. They arrived when 'San Serriffe' was free. I had tried to remove the 'removable' strake without success as the bolts were well and truly rusted in and it was with great relief that the BW guys pitched in to help.
A cold-chisel appeared and with more brute strength than finesse the strakes were finally removed.
I could not thank these guys enough. If they had not helped I would not have been able to go through the lock and onto the Llangollen canal where I had a date with Swanley marina. I would then loose the £700 owed for the hire of a dry-dock and services of the surveyor.
With strakes removed the BW guys helped us through the Hurleston flight and on our much relieved way.......thanks guys.
Addendum to this post dated 6th October 2014 regarding Hurleston lock :
With much relief we reached Swanley Bridge marina and our date with their DIY shed. San Serriffe was taken out of the water on a hydraulic trailer towed by a tractor. Hydraulic arms on the trailer adjust keeping the boat level as it moves up the slip-way. This ensures that your Ming-dynasty vases, boatman's cabin china, T.V etc are all kept on the shelf. A great bit of kit and a lot safer than most crane lifts I have watched.
Denise went home for the week as I climbed ladders to get on and off the boat whilst the various jobs were completed. First job was the surveyor who arrived the following morning. After checking the hull sides and baseplate at regular intervals with his ultra-sound equipment, everything was found in order and the metal was actually more than 6mm on the sides and still 10 mm on the baseplate..............not bad for a nineteen-year-old hull. Surveyor John Crompton delivered a full complimentary report the following day via e-mail. I had commissioned the report principally for a hull condition report for insurance purposes ( most companies require a hull report when the boat is twenty years old)
Next job on the list was for me, blacking the hull......I do all the dirty jobs !! Three coats of Rylards 'standard' were applied over the next three days and the hull of 'San Serriffe' was protected for another couple of years.
Last job was the boat roof which originally painted with a red/brown anti-slip paint which had suffered since Andy Russel painted it some eight years ago. I decided to try my hand at dividing the roof into panels with masking tape and then sanding those areas onto wet-paint with Kiln-dried fine sand. I have some experience with this on a previous boat and thought I would take up the challenge.
Once two coats had been put onto the dried 'sanded' area I then put three coats of brushed painted gloss in the gaps between them.....not original to me, but it seems to work.
With three major jobs done in the week I found the 'DIY shed' hire at Swanley good value. I only wish their were more facilities like these on the system especially nearer home. Dry docks and boat painters/repairers are in scarce supply and I cannot understand why these are not taken up as a new business opportunities in these difficult days.....there is plenty of work, but nobody to do it......but that is why I hired the 'DIY' shed !! Incidentally there was a company of boat painters in the next unit called 'Willow Boat Painting' with a friendly lady called Sally Tooze. They did not see the top of the boat, but I am sure they were not worried about the 'competition'
I enjoyed Swanley Bridge marina, but was glad to be on the move after living for week on the boat in a shed. Moving on the Llangollen canal reminded me what makes this one of the most popular canals. It is certainly very beautiful as you pass through the superb Shropshire countryside...very gentle on the eye and soul. We did not rush our progress towards the attractive village of Ellesmere as the weather turned hot and clear. More used to waterproofs, our only worries seemed to avoid sun-burn and the cratch covers and centre-hatch was opened wide to grab a breeze to cool the inside of the boat as we cruised.
Unlike our last visit we did not have to queue at locks ( this is a very popular canal) and past up the three Grindley Brook staircase locks very quickly with the help of the volunteer lock-keepers....thanks guys.
Approaching Ellesmere is idyllic as you pass Cole Mere and Blake Mere offering tantalising glimpses through the trees. This stretch certainly competes with some of the best parts of the Llangollen for
being the most beautiful.
We had decided to stay a couple of days at Ellesmere. There is a small arm that will take you almost into the centre of the village. Since our last visit they have built a Tesco store at the bottom of the arm, which is a great place to top-up on provisions.
A charming 'Olde worlde' town it has a number of useful attractions to the boater. A launderette is five minutes walk from the arm situated next to a chip shop.....what more can you need?
Well you might need a pub, perhaps......there are plenty of choices ( some better than others, it has to be said ) In the interest of market research I visited a few. Ellesmere seems to like Lions for some reason, in fact they have a pair of Lions......there is a Black Lion and a 'Red Lion' not sure why all these 'Lions' but they all serve good food and ale a plenty. One of the pubs even has a 'Lion's Den' with comfy leather seats to sit and quaff your ale. So if a pub prowl is your bag certainly try the Lions of Ellesmere.
All the feline delights of Ellesmere were soon left behind as we moved off towards Chirk with the weather still being kind to us. We had to queue at one of the locks which is a characteristic of the Llangollen as the holiday season starts to reach its summer peak. It is not so bad a problem if you remember that part of the holiday on canals is to just chill out and enjoy the journey rather than just the destination. You meet people from all over the world on the Llangollen , Australia, New Zealand, Sweden, Norway for example and just having a chat whilst you wait is both very enjoyable and interesting.
Heavy traffic and a lot of 'blind' bends make approaching bridge-holes a potential danger , especially
if the hidden oncoming boat is approaching at full belt. As with all canals approaching bridges slowly with a long blast of the horn will avoid a collision or at least minimize those desperate measures like full reverse and large rudder movements that often leaves the boat careering embarrassingly across the cut.
We had learned that the Olympic torch was to cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on 30th May at 9am
so we moored as close as possible the previous day ready to walk to Trevor the following morning and watch a piece of history.......
Joining hundreds of people in Trevor Basin we all waited for the famous Shropshire Union work-boat
'Saturn' to be man-hauled across the Aqueduct with the Olympic torch. Welsh Dragon flags were waved everywhere, coupled with a male-voice choir singing 'We'll keep a welcome in the hillside' created a really fantastic atmosphere that gave a superb Welsh greeting to the Olympic flame.
After the crowds had melted away and the Olympic torch had continued it's tour of the United Kingdom we gently crossed Pontcysyllte shutting Westy 'Suzy' into the stair well away from the open stern.
Pontcysyllte aqueduct is an iron trough with the outside just a sheer drop from the boat stern hundreds of feet below. Suzy once jumped the stern 'dodger' after a duck she took exception to........repeating that jump at this point would be her first and final flying lesson.
Entering Trevor basin we made the tight left hand turn for the last and very narrow few more miles into the terminus of the canal at Llangollen. Some stretches here were cut from solid rock and are only wide enough for one boat. It is advisable to send a 'scout' armed with a mobile phone ahead to watch for oncoming traffic avoiding meeting another boat head-on. We joined a convoy of three boats who had their 'scout' warning us to wait for oncoming traffic. Eventually we found plenty of moorings in Llangollen, but strictly 48 hours only (£12) Electric ( without pre-payment card ) and water are provided at each individual service point. If you a first time hirer or boater may I explain that daily mooring fees on the U.K canal system are rare. These are levied in Llangollen because of it's popularity, ensuring that people do not stay there too long and all visiting boats get a fair chance at the limited moorings.
That being said, we were disappointed at this this recent ruling and had planned to stay for a few more days over the weekend. Although I can understand this ruling especially at the height of the summer season, but there were at least a dozen empty moorings in the Llangollen basin and a few on the main-line approach. It is a shame that BW management cannot allow their staff to use discretion if the moorings are empty and allow an extra night or two. I am sure Llangollen town and it's attractions would appreciate the additional financial input brought by visiting boat crews. Also income from vacant moorings would not be lost.
Oh, well we will have to return over the aqueduct and spend our money over the border. Llangollen is a great place to visit, but you need a few days to enjoy it properly....... we certainly enjoyed a couple of good value excellent Rib-eye steaks in The Bridge End Hotel. This is a Frederic Robinson pub and I certainly recommend their 'Blonde' beer ( a light bitter )
So if you arrive by boat get into Llangollen without hesitation to enjoy your visit, before you run out of time :)
Back across the border we managed to moor in the Ellesmere arm near the 'Tesco' store again. An excellent place to replenish the wine stocks to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee. Watching the Thames flotilla celebrations on BBCi via the computer ( no TV signal here ) we sat watching other boats pass
ours looking for a mooring. Weather was terrible with constant rain all day and we felt sorry for the passing boat crews who looked thoroughly miserable cruising through the driving rain. Watching the events on the Thames confirmed that the weather in London was if anything worse.
Throwing a few more coals on the fire we settled down in the warm to enjoy the celebrations. Watching the flotilla pass under Tower Bridge brought back memories of our own trip on the Thames in similar atrocious weather during 2011.
Following day dawned bright and beautiful, so we vacated the Ellesmere arm and headed back towards Grindley Brook.
We stopped for the evening just before Grindley Brook enabling us to tackle the three staircase locks
together with the following flight of single locks fresh in the morning. We joined the inevitable queue as the single volunteer lock-keeper worked hard sending three boats down and then three boats up - this being the most efficient way to use the staircase locks. I noticed he received help from some boat crews but none from others. Boats going in the direction of Llangollen were taking over two hours to go through the flight. Sending somebody ahead to help other boats coming up or down the next lock helps the flow a great deal, especially in the busy Llagollen canal holiday season. Some hire-boat crews will just stand with their boat and watch you set the lock for them. I understand their lack of experience but wonder if this 'etiquette' is ever explained to them during instruction by the hire companies ? perhaps not. You are in fact not just helping other boat crews but speeding your own progress through the locks.........and perhaps most important of all it makes the task of lock operation a friendly social event that leaves everybody happy and smiling with the feeling that you have helped and have been helped :)
On one occasion a hire-boat crew joined us at a lock and just watched us. I asked if they were bringing their boat through.........should we leave the gates open for them?
"Oh, yes " they said....
" How are you going to operate the lock?" I said
"Thought we would watch - this is our first lock " they smiled in reply
"O.K - but where is your windlass ?" I asked.
"Windlass ?" came the blank reply.
" Yes one of these things - as I twirled the all important lock operating tool
" Oh that.....Oh yes..er well...it is on the boat "
Smiles all round.......as the boat was in the middle of the canal complete with windlass.
Oh, well it was their first lock and I am sure things would only get better as they gained experience. at least they had sent somebody up to the lock, if only to watch !!
Making our way back towards the Shropshire Union and the dreaded Hurleston bottom lock, we were chased by heavy rain and decided to stay in Swanley Bridge marina again for a few nights and enjoy a couple of days 'off' just hiding from the bad weather.
Rested and awakening to a morning that promised a dry day we decided to end our Welsh adventure on the Llangollen and attempt the Hurleston flight before the day became much older and the rain decided to return again. At the top of the flight we noticed the 'Hi-Viz' jack of the lock-keeper. we explained the potential problem with San Serriffe and he helped us down to the bottom lock and I felt very relieved that this lock-keeper was a BW staff member with lots of experience with this tricky lock. He suggested I keep to the rear of the lock ( front is the narrow part) everything worked and the gates to the Shrophire Union were opened for our exit from the Llangollen canal.
'San Serriffe' moved forward.....and ground to a halt.
Casting an experienced eye on the 'pinch point' on the rubbing strake he announced that he had one last trick up his sleeve.......... " I will flush you out " he said
"I will open the rear paddles and when the water hits you.....go for it ! he suggested
This remedy is full of potential problems with inexperienced hands - like a sunken boat !! This gentleman had seen all of the problems that the Hurleston bottom lock can bring. I would not let just anybody try this risky method but he was certainly the man for the job.
Paddles were opened , water came in, throttle forward to the stop and 'San Serriffe' started to move riding this Tsunami wave out to freedom beyond the Hurleston lock, into the gentle world beyond where locks were benign and do not grab you in a vice-like grip at every opportunity.
Our journey into Wales had been enjoyable but the start and finish at Hurleston lock had been something of a worry. Tomorrow is another day so join with us in our next post as we head towards the Trent and Mersey canal and cruise the lock-free stretch into Manchester.....
A return to Wales and the 'land of my fathers' via the Llangollen canal is always an attractive cruise option, especially after some seven years since we last visited. 'My fathers' were actually from South Wales, but I always feel like I am 'coming home' wherever we happen to cross the English border .
William Blake of course termed England as a 'green and pleasant land' but that description also holds true of North Wales as you progress further and further towards Llangollen and its UNESCO World Heritage site of an eleven miles section of the Llangollen canal including Telford's breathtaking Pontcysyllte aqueduct. In good company with other World Heritage sights such as the little known Taj Mahal and the Wall of China, Pontcysyllte is well worth a visit.........
Unlike some narrowboat owners who live permanently on board, we are 'landlubbers' during the winter
and leave our home moorings at about .......er well......now! The 'Merry month of May' as they say, is perhaps sometimes 'merry' only with a drink or two. This early in May is still cold and waiting for summer temperatures to be able to 'cast a clout' donning shorts and t-shirts as normal wear. Don't hold your breath waiting for summer.......go for it !
'Going for it' always seems to entail moving the contents of our house to the boat. At least two or three car trips. Food ; clothes; dog; dog's food, dog's toys; dog's bed and even a plant-trough full of 'prized' Orchids that never seem to flower. Perhaps they will after a few weeks catching the sun in the cratch, but until then they seem to resemble a floating Cannabis farm. They only seem to catch me as I try to work around them changing gas bottles, etc. Perhaps you can guess that it is certainly not me that has an interest in non-flowering Orchids.
May in the U.K is not exactly tropical but as we progressed along the Macclesfield canal at the start of our journey we did notice an Alligator or perhaps Crocodile ( not sure of the difference)at the side of the canal near Bollington so perhaps there is something in this global warming business.....
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| Snapper - snapped !!!!!!!!!!!! |
They mentioned that there was a couple of these new-fangled volunteer lock-keepers on the flight
somewhere. After our 'BW' friends left we watched as a couple of guys with hi-viz jackets walked up the flight. In addition to hi-viz yellow jackets they were comprehensively equipped for safety with auto - inflatable life-jackets and gleaming new windlasses.
''This is our lucky day ' I thought as I looked forward to some help down the locks.......they were smiling and friendly as they approached.
"Hello, O.K?" they beamed.
"Yes, not bad thanks...." I shouted as Denise worked the locks like a Trojan.
A further beaming smile and they were gone, leaving us to it.......I assume for an early tea. Oh, well they are volunteers and perhaps we will be lucky next time !!
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| Moored at the bottom of the Bosley against the high ground of Bosley 'cloud' |
In the event an Alvechurch hire boat crew who were mob-handed joined us and our combined efforts made an easy descent of Bosley Locks.
We moored for the evening near the brooding 'Bosley Cloud' high ground and woke in the morning to a dawn chorus of spring bird-call and sunshine making a dappled 'Pollyanna' like pattern on the boat ceiling as if being passed through crystal. Taking 'Suzy' for her morning walk I emerged from the boat to a superb morning........ this is certainly what we signed up for :)
Cruising between here and Kidsgrove is to have a moving grandstand seat enabling you to watch some of the very best of the Cheshire scenery float by, including country houses that seemed to have been untouched by passing centuries...... this was a morning to appreciate them all as the sunshine made everything especially magical.
As always this idyllic weather situation started to degenerate as the day grew older. A dog walker called out.............. " Weather will hold until 4pm I believe " was her confident prediction.
'Weather' did not 'hold' and it was raining at 2pm as we negotiated the locks through Kidsgrove on the Trent and Mersey canal ........so much for weather predictions..........good ones are always wrong !!!
Climbing the long lock flight up the Trent and Mersey called 'Heartbreak Hill' by the old work-boat crews, we set our face to the driving rain until we gave up the uneven struggle when both the wind and rain joined forces and we moored for the night at Rode Heath. A fire was lit in the 'Morso' stove just to raise our spirits as well as the the temperature inside the boat...........
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| Fast and slow traffic on the Trent and Mersey. |
Working uphill to the small canalside village of Wheelock the wind became vindictive as we tried to stop at the next lock-mooring and despite a fast grasp of the centre rope 'San Serriffe' sailed off to the other side of the canal as the full force pushed her sideways. Leaping on the stern I managed to wrestle her off the opposite bank and pointed her bow towards the lock opening, crabbing sideways
into the lock mouth.
"Give us a break" were my thoughts as I wished for a world without gusting winds and rain.......perhaps one day ....... but don't hold your breath !!!
Leaving the gusting winds to howl at the windows we moored at Wheelock for the day, lit the fire and gave up the uneven fight.....do your worse we thought, we will watch from the warmth of the boat.
Moving onto Middlewich the following morning thankfully brought a benign day with sunshine to help us on our way. Moving though the King's lock near the centre of Middlewich, I noticed a chip shop just across the road. Leaving the boat at the lock I dashed across the road and purchased two pieces of Cod and a portion of chips.
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| The King's Lock, Middlewich |
Mooring after moving through the Wardle Canal onto the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union we tried our best with a giant portion of chips, Defeated by the amount we gave the remainder to our trusty hound 'Suzy' who tried her best, but also gave up......these were serious portions of fish and chips !!!!!!!!
After a pleasant evening moored outside the 'Barbridge Inn' on the Shropshire Union we turned right onto the Llangollen canal at Hurleston. Many years ago ' San Serriffe ' had become stuck in this first lock on the Llangollen canal. Previous owner Don McPhee had moved into the lock and the boat became well and truly jammed. He had taken up the fenders as required on this warped and notoriously narrow lock, but the boat was too wide !!!!!!!!!!!
After a long time the boat was wrestled free and the hull makers 'Chappel and Wright' were approached for a solution. 'San Serriffe' was found to be over an inch wider than 6' 10"near the front bulkhead and a 'fix' was devised by making a foot or so of the rubbing strakes removable at that point. Since our ownership of the last four years we have moved through hundreds of locks over a fair amount of the system without moving the strakes.......Hurleston 1st lock is certainly a rogue lock with only just 6' 10" width.
I knew of this history and I also knew that Don had taken it through the lock in 2006 with no problem whatsoever. I had discussed this with a mutual friend who had crewed for him that day and came to the conclusion ( wrongly) that the lock wall had at long last been re-built to sensible proportions.
I moved 'San Serriffe' into the lock very gently and my heart sank as it quickly jammed. I looked at the wall and realised it was just as bad if not worse than I remember when I took another boat through some years ago.
Full reverse made not the slightest impression and we were well and truly stuck. Two boats attempted to tow me out, without success. A gentleman on 'Natterjack' suggested a 'snatch' tow
and after a few attempts his trusty Gardner engine did the trick pulling 'San Serriffe' from the clutching embrace of this rogue lock.
I had rang British Waterways and they sent a crew from Norbury Junction. They arrived when 'San Serriffe' was free. I had tried to remove the 'removable' strake without success as the bolts were well and truly rusted in and it was with great relief that the BW guys pitched in to help.
A cold-chisel appeared and with more brute strength than finesse the strakes were finally removed.
I could not thank these guys enough. If they had not helped I would not have been able to go through the lock and onto the Llangollen canal where I had a date with Swanley marina. I would then loose the £700 owed for the hire of a dry-dock and services of the surveyor.
With strakes removed the BW guys helped us through the Hurleston flight and on our much relieved way.......thanks guys.
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| Problems at Hurleston lock |
Addendum to this post dated 6th October 2014 regarding Hurleston lock :
I
emailed the North Wales and Border office recently ( September 2014)
in order to find out what the Hurleston bottom lock current dimensions
are after CRT's attempt to widen the pinch-points and received this
reply .....................
'The works on site to increase the available width for craft through the bottom lock were completed earlier this year, however they weren’t as successful as first anticipated. Unfortunately at this moment in time we are unable to confirm the exact available width but we will be completing further on-site investigations during the forthcoming winter stoppage program to investigate this further. Until then the width remains at the advertised dimensions.'
So at the moment nobody seems to know the actual width dimensions..... especially Canal and River Trust !!
Chris Nb 'San Serriffe' October 2014.
'The works on site to increase the available width for craft through the bottom lock were completed earlier this year, however they weren’t as successful as first anticipated. Unfortunately at this moment in time we are unable to confirm the exact available width but we will be completing further on-site investigations during the forthcoming winter stoppage program to investigate this further. Until then the width remains at the advertised dimensions.'
So at the moment nobody seems to know the actual width dimensions..... especially Canal and River Trust !!
Chris Nb 'San Serriffe' October 2014.
With much relief we reached Swanley Bridge marina and our date with their DIY shed. San Serriffe was taken out of the water on a hydraulic trailer towed by a tractor. Hydraulic arms on the trailer adjust keeping the boat level as it moves up the slip-way. This ensures that your Ming-dynasty vases, boatman's cabin china, T.V etc are all kept on the shelf. A great bit of kit and a lot safer than most crane lifts I have watched.
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| San Serriffe is taken out of the water at Swanley Bridge Marina |
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| In the 'DIY' shed for a week - Swanley Marina |
Denise went home for the week as I climbed ladders to get on and off the boat whilst the various jobs were completed. First job was the surveyor who arrived the following morning. After checking the hull sides and baseplate at regular intervals with his ultra-sound equipment, everything was found in order and the metal was actually more than 6mm on the sides and still 10 mm on the baseplate..............not bad for a nineteen-year-old hull. Surveyor John Crompton delivered a full complimentary report the following day via e-mail. I had commissioned the report principally for a hull condition report for insurance purposes ( most companies require a hull report when the boat is twenty years old)
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| Surveyor John Crompton checks the hull thickness at the water-line |
Next job on the list was for me, blacking the hull......I do all the dirty jobs !! Three coats of Rylards 'standard' were applied over the next three days and the hull of 'San Serriffe' was protected for another couple of years.
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| Hull blacked and ready to sail for another couple of years |
Last job was the boat roof which originally painted with a red/brown anti-slip paint which had suffered since Andy Russel painted it some eight years ago. I decided to try my hand at dividing the roof into panels with masking tape and then sanding those areas onto wet-paint with Kiln-dried fine sand. I have some experience with this on a previous boat and thought I would take up the challenge.
Once two coats had been put onto the dried 'sanded' area I then put three coats of brushed painted gloss in the gaps between them.....not original to me, but it seems to work.
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| Masking tape and the first of the 'sanded' panels in progress. |
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| All my own work - the finished job. Including a re-paint of the 'heart' |
With three major jobs done in the week I found the 'DIY shed' hire at Swanley good value. I only wish their were more facilities like these on the system especially nearer home. Dry docks and boat painters/repairers are in scarce supply and I cannot understand why these are not taken up as a new business opportunities in these difficult days.....there is plenty of work, but nobody to do it......but that is why I hired the 'DIY' shed !! Incidentally there was a company of boat painters in the next unit called 'Willow Boat Painting' with a friendly lady called Sally Tooze. They did not see the top of the boat, but I am sure they were not worried about the 'competition'
I enjoyed Swanley Bridge marina, but was glad to be on the move after living for week on the boat in a shed. Moving on the Llangollen canal reminded me what makes this one of the most popular canals. It is certainly very beautiful as you pass through the superb Shropshire countryside...very gentle on the eye and soul. We did not rush our progress towards the attractive village of Ellesmere as the weather turned hot and clear. More used to waterproofs, our only worries seemed to avoid sun-burn and the cratch covers and centre-hatch was opened wide to grab a breeze to cool the inside of the boat as we cruised.
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| Grindley Brook staircase locks. |
Unlike our last visit we did not have to queue at locks ( this is a very popular canal) and past up the three Grindley Brook staircase locks very quickly with the help of the volunteer lock-keepers....thanks guys.
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| Blake Mere |
Approaching Ellesmere is idyllic as you pass Cole Mere and Blake Mere offering tantalising glimpses through the trees. This stretch certainly competes with some of the best parts of the Llangollen for
being the most beautiful.
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| Blake Mere |
We had decided to stay a couple of days at Ellesmere. There is a small arm that will take you almost into the centre of the village. Since our last visit they have built a Tesco store at the bottom of the arm, which is a great place to top-up on provisions.
A charming 'Olde worlde' town it has a number of useful attractions to the boater. A launderette is five minutes walk from the arm situated next to a chip shop.....what more can you need?
Well you might need a pub, perhaps......there are plenty of choices ( some better than others, it has to be said ) In the interest of market research I visited a few. Ellesmere seems to like Lions for some reason, in fact they have a pair of Lions......there is a Black Lion and a 'Red Lion' not sure why all these 'Lions' but they all serve good food and ale a plenty. One of the pubs even has a 'Lion's Den' with comfy leather seats to sit and quaff your ale. So if a pub prowl is your bag certainly try the Lions of Ellesmere.
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| A heron patrols patrols the Llangollen canal |
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| Harrier looking for prey - a common sight over fields near the Llangollen canal. Copyright Chris Hill |
All the feline delights of Ellesmere were soon left behind as we moved off towards Chirk with the weather still being kind to us. We had to queue at one of the locks which is a characteristic of the Llangollen as the holiday season starts to reach its summer peak. It is not so bad a problem if you remember that part of the holiday on canals is to just chill out and enjoy the journey rather than just the destination. You meet people from all over the world on the Llangollen , Australia, New Zealand, Sweden, Norway for example and just having a chat whilst you wait is both very enjoyable and interesting.
Heavy traffic and a lot of 'blind' bends make approaching bridge-holes a potential danger , especially
if the hidden oncoming boat is approaching at full belt. As with all canals approaching bridges slowly with a long blast of the horn will avoid a collision or at least minimize those desperate measures like full reverse and large rudder movements that often leaves the boat careering embarrassingly across the cut.
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| 'Don,t look now' ........ always pays to take care at bridges. Copyright Chris Hill |
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| Lock queues are a downside of the Llangollen canal |
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| Crossing the Welsh border at Chirck Aqueduct |
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| Croeso I Cymru................Welcome to Wales sign at Chirck Aqueduct. |
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| Welsh language cill warning maker. |
We had learned that the Olympic torch was to cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on 30th May at 9am
so we moored as close as possible the previous day ready to walk to Trevor the following morning and watch a piece of history.......
Joining hundreds of people in Trevor Basin we all waited for the famous Shropshire Union work-boat
'Saturn' to be man-hauled across the Aqueduct with the Olympic torch. Welsh Dragon flags were waved everywhere, coupled with a male-voice choir singing 'We'll keep a welcome in the hillside' created a really fantastic atmosphere that gave a superb Welsh greeting to the Olympic flame.
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| Olympic flame en-route to Pontcysyllte Aqueduct via Trevor basin |
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| Shropshire Union boat 'Saturn' brings the Olympic torch over Pontcysyllte Aqueduct to Trevor Basin |
After the crowds had melted away and the Olympic torch had continued it's tour of the United Kingdom we gently crossed Pontcysyllte shutting Westy 'Suzy' into the stair well away from the open stern.
Pontcysyllte aqueduct is an iron trough with the outside just a sheer drop from the boat stern hundreds of feet below. Suzy once jumped the stern 'dodger' after a duck she took exception to........repeating that jump at this point would be her first and final flying lesson.
Entering Trevor basin we made the tight left hand turn for the last and very narrow few more miles into the terminus of the canal at Llangollen. Some stretches here were cut from solid rock and are only wide enough for one boat. It is advisable to send a 'scout' armed with a mobile phone ahead to watch for oncoming traffic avoiding meeting another boat head-on. We joined a convoy of three boats who had their 'scout' warning us to wait for oncoming traffic. Eventually we found plenty of moorings in Llangollen, but strictly 48 hours only (£12) Electric ( without pre-payment card ) and water are provided at each individual service point. If you a first time hirer or boater may I explain that daily mooring fees on the U.K canal system are rare. These are levied in Llangollen because of it's popularity, ensuring that people do not stay there too long and all visiting boats get a fair chance at the limited moorings.
That being said, we were disappointed at this this recent ruling and had planned to stay for a few more days over the weekend. Although I can understand this ruling especially at the height of the summer season, but there were at least a dozen empty moorings in the Llangollen basin and a few on the main-line approach. It is a shame that BW management cannot allow their staff to use discretion if the moorings are empty and allow an extra night or two. I am sure Llangollen town and it's attractions would appreciate the additional financial input brought by visiting boat crews. Also income from vacant moorings would not be lost.
Oh, well we will have to return over the aqueduct and spend our money over the border. Llangollen is a great place to visit, but you need a few days to enjoy it properly....... we certainly enjoyed a couple of good value excellent Rib-eye steaks in The Bridge End Hotel. This is a Frederic Robinson pub and I certainly recommend their 'Blonde' beer ( a light bitter )
So if you arrive by boat get into Llangollen without hesitation to enjoy your visit, before you run out of time :)
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| River Dee at Llangollen |
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| Llangollen Wharf |
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| Navigating the narrows at Llangollen |
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| Heaven for all train enthusiasts - Llangollen Railway. |
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| Welsh in one easy lesson - translation is 'The Little Card Shop by the bridge over the River Dee in Llangollen' ................ simples !!!!!!! I bought a card but not a t-shirt (words would not fit) |
Back across the border we managed to moor in the Ellesmere arm near the 'Tesco' store again. An excellent place to replenish the wine stocks to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee. Watching the Thames flotilla celebrations on BBCi via the computer ( no TV signal here ) we sat watching other boats pass
ours looking for a mooring. Weather was terrible with constant rain all day and we felt sorry for the passing boat crews who looked thoroughly miserable cruising through the driving rain. Watching the events on the Thames confirmed that the weather in London was if anything worse.
Throwing a few more coals on the fire we settled down in the warm to enjoy the celebrations. Watching the flotilla pass under Tower Bridge brought back memories of our own trip on the Thames in similar atrocious weather during 2011.
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| Flying the flag for the Jubilee celebrations |
Following day dawned bright and beautiful, so we vacated the Ellesmere arm and headed back towards Grindley Brook.
We stopped for the evening just before Grindley Brook enabling us to tackle the three staircase locks
together with the following flight of single locks fresh in the morning. We joined the inevitable queue as the single volunteer lock-keeper worked hard sending three boats down and then three boats up - this being the most efficient way to use the staircase locks. I noticed he received help from some boat crews but none from others. Boats going in the direction of Llangollen were taking over two hours to go through the flight. Sending somebody ahead to help other boats coming up or down the next lock helps the flow a great deal, especially in the busy Llagollen canal holiday season. Some hire-boat crews will just stand with their boat and watch you set the lock for them. I understand their lack of experience but wonder if this 'etiquette' is ever explained to them during instruction by the hire companies ? perhaps not. You are in fact not just helping other boat crews but speeding your own progress through the locks.........and perhaps most important of all it makes the task of lock operation a friendly social event that leaves everybody happy and smiling with the feeling that you have helped and have been helped :)
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| Queue at Grindley Brook staircase flight |
On one occasion a hire-boat crew joined us at a lock and just watched us. I asked if they were bringing their boat through.........should we leave the gates open for them?
"Oh, yes " they said....
" How are you going to operate the lock?" I said
"Thought we would watch - this is our first lock " they smiled in reply
"O.K - but where is your windlass ?" I asked.
"Windlass ?" came the blank reply.
" Yes one of these things - as I twirled the all important lock operating tool
" Oh that.....Oh yes..er well...it is on the boat "
Smiles all round.......as the boat was in the middle of the canal complete with windlass.
Oh, well it was their first lock and I am sure things would only get better as they gained experience. at least they had sent somebody up to the lock, if only to watch !!
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| A bit of help is always appreciated on any lock, especially if the volunteer lock-keeper is working single-handed. Grindley Brook staircase locks. |
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| Moving up the queue towards Grindley Brook. |
Rested and awakening to a morning that promised a dry day we decided to end our Welsh adventure on the Llangollen and attempt the Hurleston flight before the day became much older and the rain decided to return again. At the top of the flight we noticed the 'Hi-Viz' jack of the lock-keeper. we explained the potential problem with San Serriffe and he helped us down to the bottom lock and I felt very relieved that this lock-keeper was a BW staff member with lots of experience with this tricky lock. He suggested I keep to the rear of the lock ( front is the narrow part) everything worked and the gates to the Shrophire Union were opened for our exit from the Llangollen canal.
'San Serriffe' moved forward.....and ground to a halt.
Casting an experienced eye on the 'pinch point' on the rubbing strake he announced that he had one last trick up his sleeve.......... " I will flush you out " he said
"I will open the rear paddles and when the water hits you.....go for it ! he suggested
This remedy is full of potential problems with inexperienced hands - like a sunken boat !! This gentleman had seen all of the problems that the Hurleston bottom lock can bring. I would not let just anybody try this risky method but he was certainly the man for the job.
Paddles were opened , water came in, throttle forward to the stop and 'San Serriffe' started to move riding this Tsunami wave out to freedom beyond the Hurleston lock, into the gentle world beyond where locks were benign and do not grab you in a vice-like grip at every opportunity.
Our journey into Wales had been enjoyable but the start and finish at Hurleston lock had been something of a worry. Tomorrow is another day so join with us in our next post as we head towards the Trent and Mersey canal and cruise the lock-free stretch into Manchester.....
“Make gentle the life of this world.”
............Dylan Thomas.
