Roses and Castles....with a few Daisies

We inherited a beautifully decorated pair of 'Roses and Castles' wooden centre-hatch panels when we purchased 'San Serriffe' several years ago. We are certain that the Roses and Castles were painted by original owner Don McPhee's wife Lillian who is a gifted amateur artist.

Both the rear-door panels and the centre-hatch are decorated with the same high level of skill. Unfortunately I noticed recently that these panels had begun to deteriorate with gradual exposure to the weather especially the rear doors that are open to the sun and rain every day that we are aboard.

Roses and Daises.......with restored graining ( Scumble).

Plywood base of the panel starting to delaminate

Water damage to the rear of the panel

Not only were the 'Roses and Castles' beginning to suffer but the 'scumble'    (traditional painted wood graining) was beginning to peel and flake.  I have tried both scumbling and traditional Narrowboat Rose art myself on a previous boat with varying degrees of success.......certainly I could not manage the confidence with which Lillian had painted the originals.  Centre-hatch panels were constructed of a frame with an upper 'Castle' panel on a plywood base that fitted snugly into the steel hatches with the rear door panels constructed in the same way.


Water had seeped behind the centre-hatch panels and the plywood had started to rot and delaminate seriously. Worse still was the area that had been painted with the Roses as this was starting to split and destroy the painstakingly painted traditional designs. With a very heavy heart I realised that these panels were beyond saving and with the cruising season coming to an end it was time to tackle a serious artistic and joinery challenge and start from scratch with new.


Taking the panels out off the steel doors was a major job on its own.  They were screwed into the steel with fine-threaded machine screws that had rusted solid into their respective holes and refused to move. Several hours went by as I managed to free the wooden panels by widening the holes around the screws with a chisel. Removing the wooden panels from the steel doors revealed extensive surface rust to the inside of the doors that had to be taken off with a wire brush and then rust-proofed and painted.  I realised that removing the panels was a blessing in disguise because if they had been left the doors would have eventually rusted through leading to an even more serious and expensive job.


My plan of action was to remove the upper panel and frame from the rotten ply-base.  This was sound and dry and had the added advantage of saving the painted Castles. Like all jobs ( at least the ones I do) it was not as easy as it looked. Obviously the original joiner had been determined that the two should never come apart as they were 'screwed and glued' together with a few small nails for good measure!

I purchased some expensive exterior quality ply to make the new panels hopefully ensuring that the job like the original would last at least another twenty years !!

One of the new panels primed and the basics of the Roses completed ready for the original upper frame to be attached.

Original undamaged outer frame is ready for attaching to the base panel
( when it is straight !!)

Primed and painted with a red centre panel ready for the painted Roses I attached the panels to the original outer frames and everything was ready for a bit of scumble and canal art.......well at least as good as I could manage.

I have used 'Humbrol' enamel paints in the past.  These are the ones that are used to paint plastic 'Airfix' Spitfires etc, and I am told they do not fade in the sun and are fairly weather proof. This suggestion is not original to me as I have read that they are commonly used by canal artists with a lot more experience than me!!!!!!

I have read several books written on the subject of painting Narrowboat Roses and after some practice have managed to achieve a result that at least would not reduce the onlooker into howls of laughter......and they are not too bad , especially if viewed from the opposite side of the canal or better still a wide river.

I decided to try a few Daises and failed miserably. After a hour of trying I gave up and decided that the panel would have to be bare and bereft of aforementioned  Daises.

" Let me have a go " suggested Captain Denise and promptly did a perfect Daisy.

So perfect was the Daisy that a whole chain of Daises followed and the painted panel became a joint effort....... perhaps I should also have left the Roses to Denise I can hear you say :)

As I had started from scratch I decided the side hatch panels had to be scumbled like the originals. Fortunately the rear door panels were in good condition apart from the paint, so all that was required was to re-paint the scumbling.

I had tried some scumbling on the panels of a previous boat some seven years ago. I had used J.H Ratliffe's Light Oak scumble on a 'yellow chrome' base by the same company.  As I never throw anything away both these tins were found lurking at he back of my shed and despite their age were ready for use after a thorough stir.   Basic method is to coat the primed wood with the 'Yellow Chrome' ( light yellow) and when dry a very dilute coat ( at least two parts thinner to 1 part paint )of the Light Oak painted on the top.  Whilst this is still wet ( it drys fairly quickly) use a dry brush to produce the 'grain'    This takes some practice and in the past I made up some boards with the light yellow and just experimented until I felt confident to have a go 'for real'......all a bit of fun really.


As you dry brush through the weak 'light oak' each bristle uncovers the yellow underneath producing a convincing 'grain' effect. Look at real wood and try to replicate the swirls and knots - I found my method for a knot was to put a blob of paint on the graining and swirl the (small) brush in an oval and then 'diverting' the grain around the knot. Apparently Ratcliffe's do not make  the 'Yellow Chrome' anymore, but I am sure some white wood primer with a dash of yellow paint mixed in would do just as well.   Scumble done like this is not weather-proof so I finish the job with couple of coats of good quality exterior varnish which also darkens the grain a little, giving a slightly 'aged' look.

Graining (scumble) in progress on the new base panel

Base panel 'frame' grained (scumbled) to match the original

Newly scumbled bottom panel with holes for brass handles

 So if you are a time-served master 'Roses and Castles'  canal-craft painter, please make allowances for our amateur efforts and we promise to do better next time.............

Completed refurb' of the centre hatch doors.

Newly completed centre hatch panels back in position.......

Whilst I was in the mood everything that moved was in great danger of being 'scumbled' realising the centre hatch lid  and curve needed a face-lift. As the sun was shining the yellow scumble base was applied to both the hatch lid and the rear doors.   Rear doors were in good condition part from the original scumbling and Castles............but in for penny........in for a pound..........so they also got a bit of much needed 'TLC' from the mad scumbler.

Centre hatch lid and curve painted with base yellow in preparation for new wood-grain scumble

Finished graining ( scumble ) on centre hatch lid and curve

Centre hatch lid prepared in 'Yellow Chrome' prior to graining

Finished graining

Rear doors awaiting new graining.......

Finished scumble graining added to the base yellow

                                             


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Mr Darlington I presume ???

Great deluge of 2012 - Fazeley flesh-pots -'Tits' Magee - Mr Darlington I presume? - Tankards of Beer - Moon River - Great Cheese football crash of 2008 -Yes, we have no egrets.

Having lived through the great deluge of 2012. I now take every opportunity to do a little relaxing in the sunshine.

Perhaps a glass of wine and a good book, as I settle into the folding chair beside the boat.........

I had been re-reading Terry Darlington's 'Narrow Dog to Indian River' and was enjoying the description of his alter-ego character 'Tits Magee'

Sometimes I become so engrossed with a book that it suspends reality and I find it is good practice to occasionally look up from the page, if only to focus on guiding the wine-glass to your lips.

I was surprised to see 'Tits Magee' materialize on the back of boat and slowly drift past. This was a worrying development as obviously the combined effects of sun and wine were releasing my grip on reality.

Well bless my soul.......it was, it really was, the great adventurer himself Mr Terry Darlington alias 'Tits' Magee who for some reason was without his crimson suit (read the book)

"What a coincidence, I am just reading Indian River"  as I waved the book in greeting....

"Persevere with it - it gets better" suggested Terry. 

As Monica Darlington jumped off with the bow rope and Terry threw me the centre rope, I was soon surrounded by the whole team including whippets Jim and Jess who had materialized minutes earlier because they can project into the future ( read the books)

Monica and Terry Darlington                 Chris Hill  Copyright.

Terry and Monica had been on tour promoting the 'Narrowdog' trilogy and had travelled that very day from the great sprawling metropolis of Fazeley and had succumbed to the many attractions including the Indian Restaurant and Tesco Express store. They looked a little tired, which is not surprising after their hedonistic sojourn in the canal town that is Fazeley.   

Terry very kindly invited us for a few drinks a little later in the day, after they had rested from their travails.

We duly arrived bearing additional alcoholic libations. This was an honour indeed as I sipped my way though Terry's beer supplies in a pewter tankard he reserves for guests. Perhaps drunken guests are prone to drop glasses as I noticed the pewter had a few dents. This was a very sound idea as I made a mental note to buy a tankard, as even I have been known to drop the odd glass.

Supping beer from the tankard and scoffing the olives, I noticed the marked absence of the rare cheese footballs
 ( read the books) .......

These have been responsible for the collapse of all major economies since the publication of their rarity in 2008 by 'Indian River' - I prophesy that when the green shoots of Cheese-football production appear again - all will be well with the world.

Jim was not in the mood to sing 'Moon River' for us ( read the books) and I sensed that Jess could not remember the words, (neither could I)  so she had her ears stroked instead.

Chatting with Terry and Monica was an unforeseen delight.
'This was the Turtle not the mock'  as Terry is given to say.....

Terry is famous for his brilliant sense of written humour but
read a little deeper and you begin to appreciate the sheer guts and bravery of both Monica and Terry in completing their challenging adventures.  They obviously considered the risks and took an informed stab at the challenge - but like all true adventurers they won through by planning and 
pure honest guts...... a rare thing nowadays........oh, yes my dear reader, Terry and Monica Darlington are without doubt the Turtle - not the mock.

Monica and Terry Darlington with Jim and Jess.  Fradley Junction.             Chris Hill Copyright

If you have been continuous cruising on the Martian canals
Terry's books are :

'Narrowdog to Carcassonne'
'Narrowdog to Indian River'
'Narrowdog to Wigan Pier'

Buy them to ensure that 'Phyllis May II' never runs out diesel and Terry never runs out of beer

.......................you will have no egrets.  

Another tight spot for our hero - Terry Darlington on the Trent and Mersey.

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Why cruise the canals .....?

Every wondered why people cruise the canals ???

I cannot speak for others, but these are just a few of my own reasons........

Most canals exist in a gentle time-warp - more than two hundred years away from the stresses of modern life such as traffic jams. Occasionally, very occasionally, a motorway will pass overhead. This noisy interruption into your tranquility is of another time and can be mostly ignored as you notice car-drivers catching a glimpse of you and it is easy to imagine a glint of envy in their eyes for a slower pace as they hurtle past.

Watching a never-ending panorama of  some of the most beautiful scenery in the world slowly unfold.

Feeling the sun on your face - it makes you feel alive.

Feeling the rain on your face - it makes you feel alive, wishing for the sun!!

Feeling the wind as it blows your boat sideways - stops you dozing off !!!!

Friendly waves and greetings from boaters, cyclists, and walkers.

Still saying 'hello' to the few others who as yet have not grasped the concept of being friendly to strangers.

Chatting at locks as boaters help each other. You can learn a lot about the more attractive side of human nature.

Chatting with 'Gongoozlers' (people watching) or tourists of all nationalities satisfying their curiosity at locks, etc......

"Do you live on it??????"
"How far can you go??????"
"Where are you from????"

You might have heard the question before, but a friendly answer makes the world go around.

Finding a mooring at the end of the day - just near a pub  in our case - but not TOO near!!!!!!

Occasionally finding a mooring not too far from shops.

Having a 'day-off' from cruising and spending some time sat in the sun on the canal-bank. Sipping a glass or two of whatever takes your fancy improves this suggestion.

Walking your dog (or just yourself if you're not fond of animals) in the tranquility of an early morning as the light starts to gather pace. Even better if the sun is shining over the edge of the fields

Walking your dog (ditto above, if no dog) in the late evening as the sun sets, especially during those long day-light evenings of June.

Finding a place where your Satellite dish/TV aerial cannot find a signal and settling back to read a book and listen to some music....I can do this and drink a glass of wine at the same time. You have to multi-task to be a success in this boating lark!!

Why do I not just turn off the TV ? and listen to music?   It must be remembered  that I am a very junior officer on this boat and consequently not allowed to make executive decisions of this importance.

Going to places most people have never heard of.

Going to places everybody has heard of but catching that unique view from the canal or river that cannot be seen except from a boat.......most of the Thames is like this for example.

Giving up canal travel occasionally and braving the rivers for a change.......
Thames, Trent, Severn, Avon, etc, all have their difficulties and challenges, but it helps you keep sharp.

Looking forward to planning another cruise route.

Completing the cruise and safely stowing away your treasure chest of memories for another time.........

Early morning sun......Staffs and Worcester canal.                     Copyright  Chris Hill

Try it someday.......... :) 
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Stratford-on-Avon canal.......... back up t'north.

Regretfully leaving the home town of the aforementioned Mr William Shakespeare and the historic delights of Stratford-upon-Avon we re-joined the canal system and headed northwards towards the Grand Union on the Stratford-on-Avon canal.

Leaving Stratford basin we had been warned about some very low bridges - they were right!!!!!   Chimney and Satellite dish were taken down, but we decided to leave the flowers where they were, surely they cannot be THAT low.....oh, yes they were!!!!!!!    Poor flowers were squashed back to their troughs, but thankfully they all sprang back in defiance and original glory after we had passed through.

Stratford-on-Avon canal is heavily locked with some 35 locks on the thirteen miles before we could leave to join the Grand Union at Kingswood.   One of the first locks out of Stratford had been show-horned next to a bridge and the lock-beam bent in a 'V' shape because of the lack of room making it very difficult to move.  A lot of gasps and cusses from Denise and eventually 
"Bloody impossible, it will NOT move !!!!!!" 
So I started for the wall ladder to climb out of the lock.
"Leave it ......thanks, I have managed it !!" she gasped 

Next few locks were not quite so bad, but awkward just the same - more than awkward even a little spiteful perhaps with the rear gate springing opening again as you walk to  the front ones, but that's locks for you. Perhaps I take them a little too personally......
"Infamy, Infamy !.. they all have it in for me !"  as the corny  gag used to go in the old 'Carry On' film series.........

We had been told of a Tesco supermarket near the next lock........

"Not too far really, about five minutes walk" proclaimed our informant.

Why do people say things like that??  I seemed to walk for miles with the 'Granny' shopping trolley which I hate with a passion, because it is spiteful just like the locks and has a habit of turning upside down when being dragged full of shopping.

Shopping trip completed, it was time to do a few more locks as we reached the Wilmcote flight with a total of eleven to grapple with.   Blue shirt and life-jackets could be seen at the first lock - a volunteer lock-keeper.  Nice one Canal & River Trust !!!!!

Volunteer lock-keepers on the Wilmcote lock flight. Stratford-on-Avon canal

In fact there were TWO volunteer lock-keepers and they were very welcome indeed, as this made the work just that bit easier. These are friendly guys who give up their time to help people up and down the locks during the busy holiday period. Like most boaters we don,t take their help for granted and take our fair share of the work. It is a worrying development we were told that with the introduction of volunteer lock-keepers one or two boat crews just leave everything to the volunteers!!!!  That is NOT the idea - they are there to help, not to do everything for you.

After completing the Wilmcote flight we had a relaxing few miles before crossing the impressive iron-trough Edstone aqueduct.  As the day was growing older we decided to moor for the night near the wonderfully named village of Wootton Wawen. A few more old English names floated by the following morning - Preston Bagot and Lowsonford for example.

Crossing the Edstone aqueduct. Stratford-on-Avon canal

Iron trough of the Edstone aqueduct .  Stratford-on-Avon canal

Lowsonford had a canal-side pub called the Fleur-de-Lys, so we decided not to float by, as there was a handy water point for the boat and a beer point for us. What more can you want out of life ??   The 'Fleur-de-Lys' was apparently famous for selling home-made pies many years ago with people queuing out of the door to buy.  How things change.

Access bridges on this canal were certainly designed to keep the boat steerer's attention from wandering. They were made just a fraction wider than the boat and you really have concentrate as you shoe-horn the boat through. I think the bridge architect all those years ago had a wicked sense of humour and decided he would keep the boat crews on their toes. I am sure a couple of inches wider would not have compromised the structural strength !!

They were also designed with 'slots' in the bridge to throw the rope through .......

Never mind the quality feel the width..... tight squeeze through these access bridges on the Stratford-on-Avon canal.

Preston Bagot lock cottage. One of several superb eccentrically designed lock-keeper's cottages on the Stratfor-on-Avon canal.  All lovingly looked after in private ownership now, with this being one of the best.

Following morning brought yet another spiteful lock. Denise had decided to drive the boat on this stretch of canal - I wonder why?   This horror (lock not Denise) was sulking menacingly in the shadow of the M40 motorway. I opened the lock-gate - boat went in - could I close it????  No!!!!!!!

Huffed and puffed, strained until I nearly had a double hernia. This lady was not for closing. 

Just like the 5th Cavalry a guy walking his dog came to help.......

"Been like this for years...they should do something. It is impossible to do on your own" He stated in a knowledgeable way borne out of helping others with this awkward gate.

I gasped my heartfelt thanks....and, yes do something Canal and River Trust before somebody really has a groin strain or heart attack trying to close the bl**** thing !!!!!!!!!!!!

A few more locks brought us to the end of our journey on the Stratford-on-Avon canal and our exit point through the Lapworth 'Link' onto the Grand Union canal heading north towards Birmingham.







 

 
 

River Avon - Tewkesbury to Stratford Upon Avon

A thunderstorm with lightning crashing every few minutes heralded our retreat from Sharpness.  We had left the 'pigeon box' flaps open in the roof in an attempt to try and get some cool air into the boat and at 3am torrential rain poured through the openings to give us a sharp wet awakening.  I tried to shut the flaps from the inside but the hinges were stiff and I had to get dressed in a pair of shorts, climbing onto the boat roof to close them in a deluge of rain and lightning flashes that seemed to be a portent for judgment day. Forcing them closed from above seemed to do the trick, but by that time I was soaked but at least not fried by fork lightning as I knelt around the steel roof !!!!!!

Returning to Gloucester dock we moved  the following morning onto the River Severn accessing the River Avon just past Upper Lode lock several miles north.

We had managed to judge moving from the dock in fairly slack water ( current can be strong here) but the slight current against us as we moved out of the lock slowed us a little. We had watched the current coming inwards towards Gloucester dock the previous day and illustrated that it can be strong enough to be a problem to any boat that was underpowered. Fibreglass boats have the added concern of occasional floating debris coming towards them in the shape of logs and tree branches.


Joining the River Avon just before lunch on another glorious day that has been characteristic of July, we met the delightfully friendly Avon lock keeper Bob Scarrott who locked us up into the Avon at Tewkesbury.

After mooring at the nearby Avon Navigation Trust moorings he completed the license paper-work for us
 ( Avon is not covered by Canal and River Trust license) and showed us photographs of a seal that was seen in the lock during June. 

Seal in Avon Lock .   River Avon Tewkesbury.

  
Apparently the seal is still happily living on the River Severn where perhaps he will be able to return to the sea one day - but perhaps he (or she?) is content with feeding along the banks of the river.


A sobering site near the entrance to the River Avon is a narrowboat that was washed over the wall by the 2012 floods that raised it some 12ft above normal levels where it now hangs precariously - perhaps until the next flood !!!!!!!

A narrowboat hangs precariously over the River Avon wall where it was swept during the 2012 floods that lifted it to that level.........perhaps waiting for the next flood to rescue it !

Mooring on the Avon Navigation trust visitor mooring for the night, we woke in the morning refreshed enough to take a walk along the River Bank to the centre of Tewkesbury and visit the Abbey .

Walking the banks of the River Avon near Tewkesbury

Tewkesbury Abbey was purchased for the princely sum of £453 by the townspeople to avoid its demolition during the dissolution by King Henry VIII thus becoming the town's parish church. Money well spent as this magnificent Abbey is a real must for visitors to the River Avon.

Tewkesbury Abbey.

Tewkesbury even without the Abbey is worth exploring in it's own right. Riverside walks and historic streets are a delight.

Gone fishing.............on the banks of the River Avon against a background of Tewkesbury Abbey.

Plenty of shops in Tewkesbury for the boater to replenish supplies before exploring the  River Avon.

Moving on after our visit to Tewkesbury we cruised up-river to Tewkesbury Marina where we could get fuel and the all-important toilet 'pump-out'    Full to the brim with diesel and an empty toilet we were ready to explore the winding Avon.

This was brand new territory to us and really did not know what to expect. As the afternoon became older we decided that an early finish was called-for. We had a two week license to explore some 50 miles of river so there was no rush.  After a few miles
we found the 'Fleet Inn' with what looked like moorings outside.  No such luck, they were in a total state of disrepair and obviously dangerous.  Very small 'finger' moorings looked a possible but there was only two visitor moorings with a sign asking for £15 per night.......we declined the offer as being totally unsuitable for narrowboats and very expensive, so we left them to look for another mug/occupant.....and I am sure they still do!!!!!!  Never mind there are other pubs to spend money in.

Depression started to set in as we began to wonder if this was to set the precedent for the whole river........we were very happy to have consequently been proven wrong with plenty of excellent Avon Navigation Trust moorings to be found all free of charge as part of your Avon license fee.

Eckington Bridge

As we rounded a bend worried about the seeming lack of moorings we found the beautiful warm stone arches of Eckington Bridge. A look at the Avon guide suggested a visitor mooring just beyond it........and there it was with more than sufficient space for 'San Serriffe'

Eckington Bridge mooring, River Avon                                          Copyright

Our faith restored in the Avon Navigation we spent the night in this tranquil setting
safe and sound on flood proof ( vertical mooring poles) well maintained moorings.

 Tranquil mooring of Eckington Bridge at sunset.  River Avon                              Copyright

Almost reluctantly we left Eckington Bridge the following morning with a game-plan of a gentle cruise through a couple of locks to the next large river-side town of Pershore.

Pershore has 'free' Avon Navigation Trust moorings for 48 hours as part of your ANT license fee ( £60 for two weeks)
and is a  perfect place to replenish groceries at the 'ASDA' store a few minutes walk away from the moorings.

Walking a little further through the Georgian Streets to the back of Pershore town centre is Pershore Abbey. This pre-10th century Abbey suffered badly during the dissolution and was partly destroyed. It is made of a beautiful warm coloured stone that seems to radiate in the sunshine and is worth spending some time to admire.

Pershore Abbey

Continuing our upstream journey of the River Avon we came to the diamond shaped Pershore lock......not sure why it is diamond shape, but I am sure somebody will tell me!!

We managed to get three narrowboats in this strange shaped lock ( admittedly putting a smaller boat on the outside) so it all seems to work despite the diamond shape.

Pershore lock - River Avon

After a mile or so we came to a village with the attractive name of Wyre Piddle with an island charmingly called Tiddle Widdle Island.......all names that would fit easily into 'Wind in the Willows' or 'Swallows and Amazons' but these are not classic childhood fiction - these are the real thing.
Next stop was the more well-known town of Evesham with a long stretch of 24 hour moorings.  They like to keep their water points a secret though - they are hidden in small brick structures about three-foot high without even the clue of a sign saying 'water' - tricky even when you are standing next to them and impossible to see from the River.



Oh, well mustn't  grumble......apparently they are nothing to do with Avon Navigation Trust and the real culprit it seems is the Evesham local authority. Most boaters are philosophical and come to the obvious conclusion that anything is better than nothing 

That being said they provide a waste disposal point at the end of the moorings and they have plenty of moorings by River Avon standards.....so this is the place to moor and spend your money hand-over-fist in the local shops, pubs, Laundrette, Restaurants.......apart from a sign on the water point, Evesham has it all :)

One thing it does have is a carved whale !!!  It is in the Workman park ( named after a local worthy called - er well Workman)  Walking Suzy the Pesty Westy a guy asked me 
"Heh......what have they done with the whale bones?" he demanded
I looked blank and backed away
"The what?" I replied
" Oh sorry...thought you were a local" he stated
"Whale bones have been here two hundred years and now they are gone" he observed with dismay and a look of suspicion that suggested I had Whale bones secreted on my person.
It seems there WAS jaw bones of a Bow-Headed Whale that stood in the park for two hundred years, but are now in a pub somewhere. They have been recently replaced them with steel-rods to the same shape and a nicely carved whale.

I wish I had read the sign before he demanded to know of their whereabouts and I could have acted as local and explained chapter and verse of recent developments regarding aforementioned bones. Well you learn something every day.............as they say.

Evesham - River Avon

All the locks on the Avon are 'double' locks and the paddles on the upper Avon locks are well a little.....how can I describe......but 'aggressive' seems to fit.  They need care and it is essential to rope the boat at both stern and bow especially when locking up ( as the sign says!!)  

Keep the boat well back when going up, as a horizontal torrent comes from the opening paddles in front of the boat with a force that sends water some eight-foot horizontally into the lock. An un-roped boat will be thrown all over the place and getting the bow under such a torrent could be more than problematic.

Next stop was Bidford-on-Avon and we moored early afternoon just before the beautiful old 15th Century stone bridge that spans the Avon. Obviously not built for modern traffic it still copes with the help of new-fangled traffic lights for single file operation with stone 'triangles' for pedestrians to shelter from the traffic until they can make a dash for it when the traffic slackens.  King Charles 1st needed to slow up the parliamentarian forces as he retreated, so his troops destroyed the bridge behind them. It was re-built in 1650.  A more recent marker in the long history of this bridge is the filming of a 'Top Gear' program, where our heroes Clarkson and chums tested their revolutionary ford transit 'hover-van' that floated (just about) on a cushion of air and brought more chaos than both the armies of the English Civil War combined.  A nearby waterside restaurant veranda was swept by a Tsunami of wind and water drowning the customers and their food.  It has been suggested that the customers were actors ........... just as well they were soaked to the skin. I am only glad they did not try to get their hover-van through the narrow navigational arch because without a doubt the Ford would be still wedged there now !!

Bidford-on-Avon's 15th Century Bridge

Steady as you go - squeezing through the navigation arch at Bidford-on-Avon.

 

A little like a scene from 'Miss Marple' ....... Bidford-on Avon

 Bidford-on-Avon is certainly not the tourist-trap that Stratford-on-Avon is, but they have thought a little more about welcoming passing boat traffic.  Good moorings are provided with a least two water-points and a waste-disposal skip in the corner of the adjacent park with signs that actually tell you where it is - now how about that for novelty!!  Not to mention that the moorings ( 24 hour) are 'free' not like the £5 per night Avon moorings at Stratford. 

Mooring with a view - National Shakespeare Theatre. Stratford-Upon-Avon

River Avon pleasure boats.Stratford Upon Avon

A pleasure boat passes River Avon visitor moorings.  Stratford Upon Avon

Riverside moorings at Stratford are 'controlled' by Stratford-Upon-Avon local authority and they have decided to levy a charge per night with a maximum stay of two nights. What do you get for your money ? ......well you certainly get a mooring with a fantastic view over towards the town and the Royal Shakespeare Theatre with a single water-point near the 'mini-golf' hut.

You buy a ticket from the 'information barge' in the basin which must be displayed in the boat window. On the reverse of the ticket it gives sensible warnings not to use the parkland waste-bins but the skip provided in the 'Fisherman's car park'  wherever that is because they neglect to tell you!!!!!!

I asked locals that had lived in Stratford for years......
"Never heard of it" was the reply 
I searched every car park in the near vicinity as part of Pesty Westy Suzy's dog walk.........no skip.

I asked bin disposal men.....
"About a mile away"  said one
"They do not use that one now, is it still printed on the ticket? said another

I asked the 'information barge' lady.......
"Oh dear, not sure really" was the reply

So Stratford local authority, charge if you must, but at least provide a boater dedicated skip and some directions to it if it really does exist !!!!!!

Canal and River Trust have a waste disposal skip near the canal basin in Stratford but neglect to put any signage on the anonymous high boarding that surrounds it's position unsighted  from the basin. Obviously another cunning ploy to reduce the number of people actually using it.
 A Stratford waste bin collection man saw me opening the padlock to the anonymous door and offered congratulations on using it !!!!
" Perhaps you can tell other boaters? They just use the bins around the basin " he said
" If there was a sign, nobody would have to tell anybody anything"  I replied
" Yeh... right, that would be too easy " he accurately  observed.

Enough talking rubbish - as important as it is. We stayed the maximum 48 hours allowed in the CRT basin right in the centre of  Stratford-upon-Avon and enjoyed this  superbly situated mooring to explore the touristic sights.  

Gongoozlers grab a photo-opportunity as boats lock up onto the River Avon from Stratford-Upon-Avon canal basin .

Stratford-Upon-Avon basin ............by night.

...........and by day.

Ann Hathaway's Cottage.............Copyright

Alms Houses - Stratford Upon Avon

“Our future, dear Brutus, is not in our stars, but in ourselves.”
― William Shakespeare, Julius Caesar

See our next post............  Stratford on -Avon canal.

Sunny Sharpness and a boat graveyard......

Gloucester docks were in great danger of becoming redundant in the late 18th century as a silting Severn made it increasingly difficult for larger ships to reach Gloucester.
So a ship canal was built from the Severn estuary at Sharpness. This was no namby-pamby narrow canal.......this was a ship canal and the deepest and widest in the world at the time of it's opening in 1827....... an amazing piece of engineering.

Waiting for the bridge to open before leaving Gloucester docks and joining the Sharpness and Gloucester canal.......

Passing the 'Sula' lightship

Sharpness is still a viable port with ships from many parts of the world.  Gloucester and Sharpness canal is still busy, now almost exclusively used by pleasure boats. Many of users are the brave pleasure boat skippers that exit via the docks into the Severn Estuary and onto the Bristol channel and coastal destinations beyond.

  Most of the vessels that brave the Severn - channel are well equipped with radar and navigation aids and powerful engines that would put a cold-war Soviet surveillance ship to shame. Some of the bravest of the brave are narrowboat skippers who accept the challenge with only a single small engine but have have to employ a professional pilot to help them navigate the tidal journey to Avonmouth where they can return onto the canal system eventually joining the Kennet and Avon canal via Bristol.  With the channel and Severn estuary being the second largest tidal range in the world, it is really no place for the amateur with no knowledge of the amazingly strong tides and dangerous sandbanks...... so the company of a professional pilot is a must.  I actually met one of the Severn pilots who was on a narrowboat holiday with his family recently ( talk about a busman's holiday ) and he explained that apart from employing a pilot it was now mandatory that the fuel in the narrowboat had been 'polished' (cleaned) of any water/sediment content and that the engine had recently undergone a full service especially fuel filters. A 'dead' engine on the Severn Estuary due to water contamination in the diesel fuel could lead to very serious consequences. 

For boat crews life is easy on the Gloucester and Sharpness canal. There are no locks
( apart from the locks in Sharpness docks) and the numerous swing bridges are all manned everyday with a traffic light system to inform crews.

Red.......... this is a no brainer    STOP!!!!!!
Flashing Red................I am aware of you, wait until green to proceed.
Green................ Bridge is open and you have permission to proceed.

It is important not to proceed until green, even if the bridge is open. If the lights are flashing red and the bridge is open the bridge keeper will be giving traffic coming in the opposite direction priority..........almost always a boat a lot bigger than you !!!!

Part of the old dock arm at Sharpness against a background of the evening sun as the tide flows into the Severn Estuary.

One bridge that is no longer with us is the swing bridge that was the start of the vast railway bridge made of steel spans supported by stone columns that crossed the Estuary and the Sharpness canal.  One dark foggy night in late 1960 as a strong tide entered the estuary two petrol tankers attempted to access Sharpness dock. In limited visibility 'Arkendale H' and 'Wastdale H' touched against each other making the fight against the strong current difficult as they were swept together passed Sharpness dock on a voyage from Avonmouth.  Engines at full power could not stop them resisting the tide as they were swept into the 17th bridge span that carried both gas pipes and electricity cables.

A terrific explosion followed seriously damaging both ships as burning petrol spread two miles across the estuary. Five crew members out of a total eight lost their lives in this tragic accident. Damage to the bridge made it uneconomical to repair and it was dismantled apart for the massive stone structure that was the base of the swing bridge on the canal.
Steel girders of the bridge still live on ......in Chile.........where they were sold to build a viaduct.

All that remains of the giant swing bridge supports after the railway bridge was dismantled following the tragic 1960 petrol tanker disaster.

Part of the estuary comes very close to the canal at flood tides near Purton threatening a breach. In total some 81 old vessels have been beached during the 1940-60s and filled with silt to protect this section. They are now the largest ship graveyard on mainland Britain and living evidence of these old working boats that would otherwise have been lost forever. Fortunately each has been recorded and small plaques giving a basic history of their career ( builder etc) including people connected with them.

Anybody with the slightest imagination will think of all the crew members that handled these boats over the years .....some being built in the late 19th century.

A ship made of concrete !!!...........now keeps the estuary at bay near Purton

FCB 75 ( built of Ferro-concrete)

Boat winding gear in the Purton boat graveyard.

One of the rarest and unique types of craft to ever use the Gloucester and Sharpness canal were the submarines  H33 and H49 who travelled into Gloucester dock in 1937.
It would be quite a surprise to round a bend on a canal and see  a Submarine heading for you  !!!!!!

Temperatures have reached 33-35C to-day ( Monday 22nd July) and I took the opportunity to take a few photographs of people taking advantage of the sunshine............

Taking advantage of the sunshine to clean the boat roof........ Sharpness and Gloucester canal

Weather to just sit and watch............

One of the places that really is worth a visit on the Gloucester and Sharpness canal is the Wildfowl Trust at Slimbridge about a 15 minute walk from Patch Swingbridge.
Plenty of shelters to hide from the sun or rain as you watch all kinds of Wildfowl including four types of Flamingo and my favourite - a family of imported North American Otters.  A great place to get away from the confines of the boat for a while.

North American Otter at the Wildfowl trust, Slimbridge

Wildfowl Trust Flamingo, Slimbridge.

"you lookin' at me?".......Wildfowl Trust resident, Slimbridge.

Follow our journey/post on the River Avon (26th July 2013)...........